Elaine Chukan Brown visits Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon's cradle of dreams, his new vineyard well off the beaten track in San Juan Bautista.
The last time I visited Randall Grahm’s new Popelouchum vineyard more than three years ago there was little planted. There was a small nursery full of young Grenache vines planted close together and waiting to be replanted in another location. There was a wide swathe of experimental rootstock just getting started that was developed with UC Davis plant geneticist and rootstock specialist Andy Walker. And there was a clandestine block of head-trained Pinot Noir planted on an...