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In this collection of 77 wines offered this autumn by Sainsbury’s, one of Britain’s biggest supermarket chains locked in mortal combat with the likes of Tesco and Asda, are some pretty ordinary wines but a few staggering bargains. Some of the most notable are among the ports and sherries at the very end, where prices are virtual giveaways considering the age of the wines involved, but there are other outstandingly good buys, especially among reds (which I tasted after the whites so I don’t think fatigue was a factor in my lack of...