I spent three days in December 2006 visiting eight wineries in the southern part of Uruguay, where the vast majority of wine-growing takes place. Here are some highlights from a range of what were, on the whole, good-quality, distinctive wines. Wineries are listed in alphabetical order. Many wines were very good, some exceptional. The two wineries that stood out for both quality and character across their entire range were Bodega Bouza and Bodega Pisano, though they could hardly be more different from each other, except in their focus on quality and attention to detail. In fact the contrast between these...