The problem with perfection
Wednesday 2 May 2012

Perhaps it's a British thing. We are wary of over-enthusiasm, and condescending towards excessive praise. At least, that's the stereotype, and I conform to it. I suspect I am not alone. At the top of each tasting sheet at the Decanter World Wine Awards, where I have just enjoyed a week's judging, is printed in bold capitals the sweetly cajoling phrase 'PLEASE BE ENTHUSIASTIC ABOUT THE WINE IF YOU LIKE IT.' This entreaty, itself so marvellously understated, appears right above 'PLEASE WRITE CLEARLY.' It would seem that among Decanter's judges – a diverse and international bunch, I might add...
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