Puglia is not the most beautiful part of Italy. The horizon reveals endless parched scrub, littered with ancient towns cobbled together from the local limestone, and connected by cracked, dusty roads. It is rural, poor and mostly forgotten – and much the same can be said of its wines.
On a visit to the region this month, however, I experienced another side to the coin – literally, since it is the image on the Italian one cent euro – the Castel Del Monte. This 13th century UNESCO heritage castle is about one hour’s drive inland from the port of...