A 50-strong snippet of The Wine Society's range follows, representing mostly the classics, although there are a few curios too. My picks of the bunch were Ch Reynon Rouge, a St-Joseph from the combined minds of Jaboulet and Perrin, and Le Haut-Lieu (pictured) from Domaine Huet in the Loire.
The notes in italics are provided by the Wine Society.
SPARKLING ##1##
FORTIFIED
Herederos de Argüeso, Las Medallas NV Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Apple sauce, baking bread, lovely texture and smoothness with a tangy finish and charming mineral character. (RH) 15%
WHITE
France
Bordeaux
Ch Doisy-Daëne, Sec 2008 Bordeaux
Pungent grass aromas, biting lemon fruit on the palate, wax, melon and honey. Long length, very broad flavours. (RH) 12.5%
Burgundy
Joseph Burrier, Ch de Beauregard 2008 St-Véran
Light, baked apples, spice, dry savoury finish and bitter tones on the finish. Refreshing acidity but not terribly forthcoming. (RH) 13%
Dom Philippe Colin, Sous Les Feilles 2006 Montagny
Butter, vanilla ice-cream, apples, pineapple, piquant acid, good length with a buttered popcorn finish and a touch of green vegetable right at the end. (RH) 13.5%
Alsace
Cave de Turckheim, Brand Gewurztraminer 2007 Alsace Grand Cru
Very pronounced violet, talcum powder, lychee and melon. Sweet on the palate, unctuous body, long and powerful with massive concentration. Unremittingly powerful. (RH) 13.5%
Loire
Dom de Bellivière, L'Effraie 2006 Coteaux du Loir
Honeycomb, apple, light body, fresh green fruit but a bit lacking in ripeness. (RH) 13.5%
Gilles Berlioz 2008 Savoie
Light body but focused citrus and lime flavours, zingy finish. Bit of smoky character on the finish. (RH) 11.5%
Huet, Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec 2007 Vouvray
Closed, apples, floral nose. Broader on the palate, with a taste that expands in the mouth: spooky biodynamics or just good winemaking? Either way, it’s a very pleasurable experience with subtlety, grace but lots of core fruit too. (RH) 13%
Denis Jamain, Les Pierres Plates 2007 Reuilly
Peculiar brie cheese on the nose, with such intensity that it is offputting. The palate gives more of the same: a rancid, rotten flavour. (RH) 12.5%
Germany
Ruppertsberg Co-op, The Society's Ruppertsberg 2007 Pfalz
Banana, lime – bit of an odd fruit combination, dry finish, thick mouthfeel. Not classic, though drinkable enough. (RH) 11.5%
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese 2005 Mosel
Beautifully ripe and honeyed nose with floral notes, sweet spice and lime pickle. Bold and medium-sweet on the palate, just enough acid to balance on the finish with a good length. Very good. (RH) 8%
Italy
Palladium Garganega 2009 IGT Veneto
Pear drops, grapefruit, sharp acid, bit bland and confected. (RH) 12.5%
Poggio al Tesoro, Solosole Vermentino 2007 IGT Toscana
Lovely flint and smoke nose with a good dash of citrus fruit. Dry, interesting, some bitter lemon and lemon curd notes. (RH) 14%
Hungary
Hilltop Cserszegi Füszeres 2009 Neszmély
Aromatic, gewurz-a-like (this is a cross of Gewurztraminer and Irsai Oliver, in fact) with an estery banana and light citrus character. (RH) 12.5%
South Africa
The Foundry Grenache Blanc 2009 Coastal Region
Toffee, cream, apple crumble, caramel. Perky acid, bit of flint character, dry and enjoyable. (RH) 13.5%
Australia
Tahbilk Marsanne 2008 Nagambie Lakes
Dry, aromatic and perfumed nose with an aniseed, liquorice and a white pepper tinge on the finish. Lots going on in the nose – plenty to like. (RH) 13.5%
New Zealand
Craggy Range, Te Muna Road Riesling 2008 Martinborough
Dog Point Chardonnay 2007 Marlborough
Powerful, creamy oak on display: vanilla, crème caramel, spices, green apples, bright acid to finish. (RH) 14%
Hunter's, The Society's Exhibition Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough
Pungent vegetal and grass aromas with a syrupy, tinned fruit tone. Lots of pure gooseberries on the palate. (RH) 13.5%
Argentina
Mendel Semillon 2009 Mendoza
Very light nose, some waxy texture but not much in the middle. (RH) 13.5%
Chile
Concha y Toro, The Society’s Chilean Chardonnay 2009 Limarí
Banana split, light body, fresh citrus juice, chalky texture. (RH) 14%
Viña Leyda, The Society’s Chilean Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Leyda
Sweet gooseberry fruit, bitter grapefruit finish, quite a wince-worthy level of acid. (RH) 13.5%
Maycas del Limarí, Reserva Especial Chardonnay 2008 Limarí
Thin, fresh, sour citrus, high acid. Lacking in distinguishing features. (RH) 14%
RED
France
Bordeaux
Ch Beaumont 2006 Haut-Médoc
Cassis, leather, pepper, slightest hint of leaf, decent tannic grip. (RH) 13%
Ch Reynon 2006 Premières Côtes de Bordeaux
Blackcurrant, leather, cedar, lots to enjoy here, very smooth and well-integrated tannins. GV. (RH) 13.5%
Burgundy
Dom Henri Boillot, En Chevret Premier Cru 2006 Volnay
Funky, ripe nose with earthy, vegetal notes. Pure and well-defined cherry and raspberry fruit that comes through on the palate with remarkable alacrity. Dry tannins, needs some time to develop. (RH) 13.5%
Dom Jean-Marc Vincent, Les Gravières Premier Cru 2006 Santenay
Ink, woodspice, embers, smoke, dry tannins, floury texture, redcurrant and rosehip. Very generous and enjoyable. (RH) 13.5%
Beaujolais
Joseph Burrier, Ch de Beauregard 2006 Moulin-à-Vent
Cherries, fine-grained tannins, dry finish, soft and supple mouthfeel. Pure red fruit. (RH) 13%
Trénel 2008 Chiroubles
Violets, raspberry, pretty firm tannins and a refreshing acid. Little spicy tingle on the finish. Serious stuff. (RH) 13%
Rhône
J L Chave Sélection, Mon Coeur 2007 Côtes du Rhône
Powerfully scented nose, firm tannins, ripe bramble fruit. Bit of undergrowth to add complexity with a strong menthol finish. (RH) 14%
Dom des Escaravailles, Ventabren 2004 Côtes du Rhône-Villages, Cairanne
Plump raspberry and blackberry fruit with a good dose of leather and fruitcake. Mint and chocolate on the finish. (RH) 15%
Maison Nicolas Perrin 2007 St-Joseph
Meat, black pepper, olives, lovely texture to the tannins, just enough grip and accessibility. Long finish. Will last. (RH) 13%
South of France
Ch de Pène, The Society's French Full Red NV Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes
Over-ripe fruit and a touch of horsey farmyard character that smacks a bit of bad hygiene. Riper fruit on the palate redeems it slightly. (RH) 13.5%
Cave des Vignerons des Côtes d’Agly, Château de Pena 2007 Côtes du Roussillon-Villages
Ripe, blackcurrant and blackberry scent, chalky tannic finish, smooth and simple. (RH) 13.5%
Italy
Alvolini, Alvolo 2003 Aglianico del Vulture
Black fruit, chalky tannins, black cherry, dark leather and singed meat finish. (RH) 14%
Colla 2007 Barbera d'Alba
Dry, smooth, red cherry and spice, light tannins. Lingering spice finish. (RH) 14%
Manfredi, Bricco Rosso Suagna 2004 Langhe
Perfume and blackcurrant on the nose, pronounced tannins, dry, not massively complex but very convincing. (RH) 13.5%
Santa Lucia Primitivo 2008 IGT Puglia
Potent nose, lots of stewed fruit on the palate, surprisingly light body on the palate, chalky tannins, ripe and drinkable fruit. GV. (RH) 14%
Spain
La Rioja Alta, The Society's Exhibition Reserva 2003 Rioja
Very developed and expressive nose, oodles of vanilla spice, red cherry, redcurrant, long finish with a strong redcurrant and sweet spice aftertaste. (RH) 13%
Sabina Tempranillo 2008 Navarra
Cherry jam, green leafy notes – but not in an unripe way – smooth and supple, dry and savoury. Great for less than a fiver. (RH) 13.5%
Virgen de la Sierra, Cruz de Piedra Garnacha 2008 Calatayud
Cruz de Piedra is made by Bodegas Virgen de la Sierra who have superb high altitude vineyards (750 to 1100 metres above sea level) in Calatayud, a lesser known region south-east of Rioja. The secret to the rich quality of this wine is ancient garnacha bush vines which produce fruit full of flavour and power. After fermentation, this wine is bottled early to capture the freshness and vitality of the garnacha grape. Juicy enough to drink on its own, it also works well with Mediterranean style cooking.
Farmyard, over-ripe cherries, light on the palate – more miss than hit, this one. (RH)
Australia
Heartland Shiraz 2007 Langhorne Creek
Ripe blackberries with bacon fat, savour spice, violets and round tannin feel. Lovely range of Shiraz flavour on display, and a long finish. (RH) 14.5%
Tahbilk Shiraz 2004 Nagambie Lakes
Cooked black fruit, dry tannins that could support some decent bottle age, concentrated but not overbearing primary fruit with spice and subtle oak flavour. (RH) 14.5%
New Zealand
Dog Point Pinot Noir 2007 Marlborough
Pure red fruit, smoke, tangy acidity and round mouthfeel, moreish length with good potential for age. (RH) 13.5%
Seresin, MOMO Pinot Noir 2008 Marlborough
Sweet raspberry fruit, very luscious and confected, light body, low tannins but pure and lively fruit concentration. (RH) 14%
Chile
Concha y Toro, Winemaker's Lot 163T Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Maipo
Ripe blackcurrant fruit, vanilla pod, cinnamon stick, long finish. Loads of concentration and definition to the flavour here – really persistent. (RH) 14%
Dona Paulina Merlot 2009 Rapel
Vegetal, green bean tones and some red fruit. Somewhat crude fruit character, very light tannin, dry and short. (RH) 13.5%
Emiliana, El Polilla Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Central Valley
Blackcurrant syrup, grainy tannins that seem a bit unbalanced with the rest of the wine, baked fruit, decent length. (RH) 13.5%