What a pleasure it was to taste a range of good to very great wines, several of them already apparently in their prime, and none of them overloaded with alcohol or extract. About 40 tasters had the luck to share three bottles of each of eight of the finest 1982 red bordeaux at a (non blind) tasting organised by Bibendum Wines of London NW1. A room at the Lanesborough Hotel at Hyde Park Corner (once a hospital but now the sort of place that automatically supplies guests with their own butler) was deemed suitably smart for these wines. The wines...