As Hubert Trimbach puts it, 'we are guardians of the traditional, classical approach to Riesling while some of our colleagues have switched to a style with more residual sweetness'. Makers of the world-famous Clos Ste Hune from a plot inside the Rosacker grand cru above the village of Hunawihr, they also make a Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling at the family winery with its storks' nest in the village of Ribeauvillé which needs a good five years, sometimes 10, in bottle before showing its undoubted mettle. The Trimbachs – eleventh generation Hubert and his brother Bernard and Bernard's sons Jean and...