Burgundy is not just small family domaines. Matthew Hayes talks to those in charge of the much larger enterprises that are potentially more exposed, like so many European wine producers, to current misfortunes.
For most of Europe’s wine producers, 2020 started going awry in October 2019 when President Trump decided (in his infinite wisdom) to impose 25% tariffs on virtually all European wines under 14% alcohol – and that to help a settle a transatlantic spat between Boeing and Airbus. When COVID-19 arrived, a bad situation fell off a cliff.
Burgundy’s 27,000 ha (66,720) of vines are split between myriad...