Victoria's slimline Chardonnays

One of several general tastings organised at last month's well-attended Australian generic tasting at London's Saatchi Gallery was a snapshot of some cool-climate Chardonnays from the state of Victoria. It is hardly surprising that Victoria was chosen to showcase Australis's new slimline style of Chardonnay for its cooler reaches are particularly well-placed to produce some of Australia's finer examples of this varietal. See, for example, Eminent Victorians.

I have already brought the bargain of the selection, Brown Brothers regular 2008 King Valley bottling, to your attention as this wine of the week. Here is the complete range, and...