When you sandwich a tasting between Piglets and royalty in the morning, and a pre-launch dinner at a not-yet-opened London restaurant in the evening, you might be guilty of rushing it at the very least, and blistered-feet distraction at the very worst. But with the first mouthful of wine, Vin Cognito got me straight back into gear, and for the next three hours they held me captive. Lucia and James have managed, once again, to spin their eclectic tastes into a helter-skelter of sheer delight, from the most bewitching orange wine I have ever tasted, to a wine made by...