After a marathon tasting spree from Vienne to Valence, James Lawther finds the challenging vintage light on ageability but rich in charm. Above, blue sky peeks out from between the clouds above the Hermitage hill in mid October 2024.
After the hot, dry, ‘solar’ years of 2018, 2019, 2020 and 2022, in which power and concentration typically hold sway, 2023 offers a more elegant and approachable option. Quality is somewhat variable, particularly in the southern sector of the region. Contrasting weather conditions played a part, a deficit of rain followed by abundance in spring, then a two-week heatwave in August...