Weird and sometimes wonderful new wave Germans

It’s not often that you turn up for a tasting in a tiny wine shop well outside central London at 5.30 on a Thursday evening to find it heaving with appreciative customers. It’s not often, alas, that German wines draw in the punters. And it’s all the more unusual for dry white and red wines from Germany to draw in the crowds.

But David Motion runs a most unusual business at The Winery in Maida Vale (and, now, at a shop within a shop at Liberty on Regent Street). He basically falls in love with a style of wine, goes...