Italy has more than 4,000 ha (nearly 10,000 acres) of Sauvignon Blanc but is still in doubt about what its style should be.
Last year I was sent a sample of Sauvignon Blanc from Montauto, a Maremma estate on the Tuscan coast. I can't say I was much intrigued and I wondered why anyone in their right mind would plant it in this hot climate and expect to make anything interesting out of it.
I couldn't have been more wrong. My negative mindset proved no obstacle for this wine, which comes from a 40-year-old vineyard. And although it didn't resemble...