In this submission to our 2024 wine writing competition, Ryan Rougeux writes about the memorable experience of tasting Vega Sicilia Único. For the rest of this competition's published entries, see our competition guide.
Ryan Rougeux writes Ryan Rougeux is a Certified Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers and is about to attain his Level 3 Award in Wines with the WSET. Ryan has been immersed in the hospitality industry since 2005 when he started working as a cart attendant for a private country club in DeLand, FL. Ryan earned a degree in Journalism from Santa Fe College in Gainesville, FL. After graduating in 2010, Ryan started serving tables and opened up a steakhouse in Orange City, FL. Since then, his passion for the hospitality industry has grown exponentially. Ryan started bartending at hip hop and latino night clubs instilling in him cultural diversity. After the party years, Ryan found a new niche in fine dining and the intricate style of service, along with exemplary food and beverage. Ryan has worked under 3 different James Beard nominated chefs with the roles of server, mixologist, manager, general manager, and a beverage manager for a Michelin Key Hotel. Ryan has been a contributor and published food writer for Coastal Angler Magazine and The West Volusia Beacon. Ryan currently is a sommelier at STK Steakhouse in Disney Springs and he travels the world tasting wine and food, always furthering his education on his journey to becoming a master sommelier and master of wine.
Sunday Supper Somm Surprise
Sunday supper, an ever changing once a week meal curated by the executive chef encompasses comfort, flavor, and brings families together. Chef’s featured supper of the evening was wood grilled lamb chops with a chimichurri glaze, rosemary salt, and Calasparra rice. Each Sunday, the humble, yet very wealthy owners would dine with two VIP guests and test the chef’s features and also ask the General Manager to pair a wine with the nosh. Unfortunately, the General Manager was not in for the evening on a trip to Argentina sipping Malbec in Valle De Uco.
I strutted into the restaurant with more pep in my step than usual, as it was my birthday and a celebration at the local watering hole was in store after my shift. I checked in with the bright hostess as she informed me I would be taking care of the owners and guests for the evening. She also noted that I would need to select a bottle of wine from the cellar for the royalty to pair with the tender lamb chops. The butterflies started bumping into each other in my esophagus. I had signed up for my introductory certification and was immersed in wine, but the full decision rested upon my shoulder with no backing from our “Wine Boss” to confirm if it would pair well or not.
I immediately grabbed our bottle list and started flipping pages. Veteran servers started handing out chuckling advice, “that lamb would go great with a Moscato, Ryan.” There were so many factors to consider! Would they want a fair priced wine, would they like to impress their guests with some premier juice, would they even let me pick for them?
The owners sat promptly at 5:30 p.m. in their usual enchanted chef's table chamber. Rare sculptures, exceptional artwork, and a crystal clear glass table were set to perfection. I had a few ideas in my head for their wine from Northern Rhone Syrah, Australian GSM, and the ringer choice of a Tempranillo with some age to it. After greeting the table, the owners somehow knew it was my birthday and thanked me for coming in on my special day. The male owner tapped me on my shoulder and whispered in my ear, “don’t tell anyone, but it’s my birthday too.” The butterflies took shots of espresso and flew faster than before.
The owner’s wife said, “Since our general manager isn’t here and it is your birthday, we want you to pick out any wine on the list if you could have it with this meal, price isn’t an issue.” My eyes lit up like an alligators with a spotlight shined upon them. There was one wine that had been on my mind since I started working at the restaurant, and tonight was the night I would get to see it in action. A wine I had heard stories about, but never in a million years had the money or ability to taste at my young age. A 2000 vintage Vega Sicilia Unico Gran Reserva, the suavecito big daddy from Ribera del Duero, Spain.
I shot up the stairs to the cellar, peeled open the EuroCave, and carefully pulled the bottle out. I floated back to the floor and grabbed four Zalto glasses and a swan decanter. I set the crystal stemware out and was stopped by the husband, “make sure you get a glass, we need you to make sure this is going to be good for us.” I stuttered, “absolutely!” I zipped back to the table and presented the bottle as the husband had a sly smirk on his face. I removed the foil, wiped it off, and the cork seemed to be in excellent condition. I seamlessly removed the cork and took a sniff of the end. Ripe red fruits, leather, spices incessantly entered my nose as the excitement took over nervousness. I wiped the light layer of sediment from around the inside of the neck and poured a small sample into the glass. The owners said, “More, it’s your birthday!” I swirled that garnet red vine juice and let the aromas dance across the olfactory receptors as I smiled without even meaning to.
The next moment stands still in time and always will. When I put the glass to my palate and the wine flowed into my mouth I went to a different place. From what I was told, my eyes were closed, I pursed my lips, aerated the wine for a short second, swallowed, and a smile that went from ear to ear followed by a soft, “ahhhhh.” The husband laughed and stated in a southern drawl, “Boy that reminds me of the first time I tried this wine, I’m glad you feel the same, son.” The wine had an elegance I had never experienced yet, so much boldness, structure, yet still silky and velvet. A masterpiece of wine with leather, tobacco, and yet still soft with a finish that didn’t quit. The whole table was enamored over the wine and the lamb paired exquisitely.
I caught the executive chef gazing at me from the pass as he saw wine still left in my glass. I slowly approached him and said, “would you like to try?” He responded, “You’re going to be a fine sommelier one day, thanks kid, and happy birthday.”
The photo is the author's own. Caption: 'Chef's Table - The glass chef's table where I served the owners and had my first sip of Vega Sicilia Unico'.