The weeks after harvest plod on like a protracted hangover. There is a deadened sense of pace at Gusbourne Estate as the days get darker and the weather grows colder. This week we were back in the young vineyard tying vines on to stakes, finishing a laborious job that has been ongoing for months. As ever, the redoubtable Tom demonstrated his innate Czech workaholism by setting a furious pace up and down the rows. I am beginning to suspect that he says so little in a deliberate effort to channel all his energy into working as insanely hard as he...