Barolo – 2006 Riservas

Although I had greatly looked forward to tasting the 2006 Riservas after the challenge of the very young and tannic 2008 flights, reminding myself that former would be flattered by comparison with the latter, I came away a little bit sobered. Several wines are nothing less than stunning in structure, complexity and length, but on more than one occasion I kept asking myself if the wine actually lived up to this highest of all Langhe wine categories. And the truth is, some just don’t hit...