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Barolo 2017 – heralding climate change?

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Walter Speller
Tuesday 13 July 2021
Cannubi cru in Barolo

Too many wines are ready to drink, and the variation is scary. See yesterday's article on Barbaresco 2018 and Walter's picture of Cannubi above.

After having tasted some of the top 2017 Barolos last December, I came to the preliminary conclusion that in spite of the very testing, hot vintage, some good wines have been made. Fast forward to June 2021 and a more patchy picture emerges, that of light fruit, and wines that have developed in a frighteningly fast fashion.

A worryingly high number of wines are already getting tired – evidence of the fact that their constitution...