Bordeaux 2009 – dry whites

See our guide to Bordeaux 2009 coverage.

If the sweet whites seemed superlative in 2009, the dry whites were not quite as outstanding. Certainly they seemed generally to lack a bit intensity and nerve. Many were downright fat and I often came across the rather unsubtle smell of a glucose tablet or something akin to the sticks of coloured sugar known as Edinburgh rock. The Sauvignon aromas seems particularly feline in 2009, and some producers seemed to have increased their Sauvignon proportion in an effort to inject some zip into the blends. That said, there were some quite luscious wines...