If mediocrity is one of wine's most cardinal sins, then Alain Brumont of Chx Montus and Bouscassé in deepest south west France is one of its saving graces. Not for his following some holy vinous creed, but for his saintly faith in the idiosyncrasies, the nuances and the plain weirdness that wine can have. Here was Tannat and Petit Corbu, untamed and un-tethered, full of character and variation. Screwball one moment, eloquent the next. Some intoxicating, some frankly ropey: but all genuine and honest wines – a quintessence of place and vintage and individuality – surely one of wine's most...