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28 Jan 2005
Tasting articles

Burgundy 2003 tasting notes: C-D

Tasting articles

The tasting notes are in alphabetical order by producer (sur)name, but you may change that.

Bertrand Ambroise 2003 Bourgogne

Very dark purplish crimson. Slightly rustic nose with definite CO2. A bit tarted up. The tannins are too severe for the fruit. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2007
15

Dom Amiot-Servelle 2003 Chambolle-Musigny

Bright, savoury nose. Lovely fresh fruit on this sample. Caresses the palate, and only very slightly scrawny. Certainly not hot. Light and spicy with great flirtatious refreshment and value. Round. Much softer than usual at this stage. A bit harsh on the finish. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2011
16.5

Dom Amiot-Servelle, Les Charmes Premier Cru 2003 Chambolle-Musigny

Cask sample.
Fresh and racy. Good entertainment value. Needs a bit of time. Bright crimson. Slightly dull. Quite concentrated and intense on the nose, then definitely charming on the palate. Relatively light and gentle. Probably not quite enough intensity for the price. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2013
17

Dom d'Ardhuy 2003 Ladoix

Pretty fine and lively. Sweet, rich, desperately trying to stay inside a corset to be as elegant and lean as possible. Slightly dry finish. Easy, open. (JR)

Drink
2005
–
2008
16

Dom d'Ardhuy, Grand Cru 2003 Corton-Charlemagne

Tense, mineral, exciting nose. Quite soft acidity but lots of sweetness too. Fairly open already though obviously youthful. Pure, fresh, not especially dense. Transparent. Just good sweetish white burgundy rather than thrilling. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2015
17

Dom d'Ardhuy, Les Fremiers Premier Cru 2003 Pommard

Deep crimson. Quite alcoholic. Powerful and meaty. Sweet start with lots of cherry flavour – almost cherry syrup in fact. Round, velvety. Pommard’s iron fist in a velvet glove but terribly forward. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2010
16.5

Dom d'Ardhuy, Grand Cru 2003 Corton-Les Pougets

Rich, mossy nose. Acid sticks out a bit which is a shame because there is very good fruit underneath. Again, slightly dusty tannins. A bright light shines under a layer of intervention. Definitely sweet! (JR)

Drink
2007
–
2014
17

Dom d'Ardhuy, Grand Cru 2003 Corton-Les Renardes

Very sweet and winning – cherry sweet – and then the tannins insist, especially on an extremely dry finish. Long but lacks a bit of freshness. This amount of sweetness makes the low acidity so obvious. (JR)

Drink
2006
–
2012
16.5

Dom de l'Arfentière 2002 Mâcon-Uchizy

Smoky-rich nose, very opulent palate with some nice structure. Not very serious, though, and a very slight hint of wet dishcloths. (JR)

Drink
2004
–
2007
15

Dom Robert Arnoux 2003 Vosne-Romanée

Deep crimson. Thick, dry, and quite rich, yet lively, too. Very pronounced tannins on the finish. Too severe on the finish. (JR)
Drink
2009
–
2012
16

Dom Robert Arnoux 2003 Vosne-Romanée

Not a deep colour, nor a deep scent. Quite pronounced acidity and then very dry tannins on the finish. Stolid. Very dry, inky finish. The 2002 tasted alongside had much more refreshing fruit. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2011
16

Dom Bertagna, Les Beaux Monts Premier Cru 2003 Vosne-Romanée

Deep crimson. Sweet and thick and very exotic, with masses of concentrated fruit. Good balance. Lots of beguiling ripe cherry flavours, with real texture and structure. Definitely sumptuous. Tannins very well hidden. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2014
18

Dom Billaud-Simon 2003 Chablis

Relatively cool nose, but surprisingly opulent on the palate. Some chew. Atypical. Nice wine, but not especially Chablis. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2008
16

Dom Blain-Gagnard 2003 Chassagne-Montrachet

Not integrated. A bit dull. Not 100% frank or direct on the nose. Surprisingly lean. Quite concentrated in terms of alcohol and lots of acidity. (JR)

Drink
2006
–
2008
15

Dom Louis Boillot & Fils 2003 Gevrey-Chambertin

Not as deep as some. Intense, rather exaggerated oak on the nose, but lovely ripe, if very slightly flabby, fruit on the palate. Just not very like Burgundy. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2012
17

Bouchard Père et Fils, Taille Pieds Premier Cru 2003 Volnay

Relatively pale crimson. Very slightly charred note on the nose, but the fruit is relatively fresh and lively. Slightly powdery edge. Round and chewy. It will probably come right, though the finish at present is terribly dry. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2014
17

Dom Bouchard Père et Fils 2003 Monthelie

Paleish purple. Surprisingly “cool”, introvert nose. Then something slightly stewed on the palate. I yearn for fresher fruit. Ultimately a bit hollow. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2008
14.5

Dom Bouchard Père et Fils 2003 Pommard

Quite deep purple. Brambly fruit with a dry edge. If this were Australian, I would not be surprised. Far from the purest Pommard I have encountered. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2010
15

Dom Bouchard Père et Fils, Grand Cru 2003 Corton

Deep colour. Playful nose – a rather confident depth of ripe fruit flavour without any too obvious burnt or stewed notes. Great depth of cherry fruit completely overlays the tannins, which are considerable. Wait for this wine. (JR)
Drink
2009
–
2015
17.5

Bret Brothers, En Carementrant 2003 Pouilly-Fuissé

The second year they have produced this bottling from the cooler soils of Vergisson. Full, round and fleshy, though still quite restrained at the moment. Strange sort of sweetness overlays this at the moment. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2010
??

Dom Carré-Courbin 2003 Volnay

Mid-crimson. Very sweet and charming, if not the most serious. Round. Slightly fizzy. Not much weight, and very, very slightly lacking in acidity. Very dry, fine tannic finish. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2010
16

Dom Carré-Courbin, Vieilles Vignes 2003 Volnay

Cask sample.
Quite deep. Strong stewed-fruit nose. Quite jagged fruit on the palate. Out of balance at the moment. Less charming than Saint Véran, without great weight on the palate. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2011
16 +

Dom Sylvain Cathiard 2003 Vosne-Romanée

Relatively fragrant, yet intense, nose. Sweet and round. Full spread on the palate. Quite flattering, but not good value. Silky tannins. (JR)

Drink
2007
–
2012
16.5

Maison Champy 2003 Pernand-Vergelesses

Quite nervy and naïf, but solidly respectable for that. Some richness and creaminess that one rarely encounters in a Pernand-Vergelesses. (JR)

Drink
2005
–
2006
16

Maison Champy, Grand Cru 2003 Corton-Charlemagne

Very difficult to see grand cru quality or intensity on the nose. Sweet and full, but not exciting. A bit chewy and angular. Big, but not interesting at the moment. (JR)

Drink
2008
–
2012
17

Maison Champy, Grand Cru 2003 Échezeaux

Lively, if relatively simple, nose. Straightforward, ripe, very slightly pruney fruit on the palate. Slightly drying tannins on the palate. Hard work! Some life here, though. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2012
17

Maison Champy, Grand Cru 2003 Mazis-Chambertin

Bright crimson. Very slightly cheesy on the nose. Some cough medicine quality. Sweet, but not desperately refreshing. Dry finish. Grainy texture. Rasping tannins. (JR)

Drink
2008
–
2015
16.5

Dom Chandon de Briailles, Grand Cru 2003 Corton-Les Bressandes

Good colour. Good balance but very light on the nose, but not immediately grand cru quality or weight. A sweet, almost bonbon start. Quite insistently dry tannins. A lack of freshness and slightly obvious acidity. Not harmonious. A bit too self-consciously confected. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2015
17

Dom du Château de Chorey, Les Teurons Premier Cru 2003 Beaune

Cask sample. Exceptionally deep crimson. A bit exaggerated on the nose, as though given a very dramatic cold soak. Big, round, sweet brambles. Gives a lot of pleasure, but absolutely no relation to what one usually expects from a burgundy. So sweet and strong it almost tastes like a Grenache. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2008
17 +

Dom Robert Chevillon 2003 Bourgogne

Very, very sweet and gentle on the palate. Sweet and round. Definite tannins, but not excessive. Pretty good value. (JR)

Drink
2006
–
2008
16

Dom Robert Chevillon, Aux Chaignots Premier Cru 2003 Nuits-St-Georges

Cask sample. Dark, bluish purple. Intense, fruity, sweet and very slightly jammy, but with lots of charm and punch. The first 2003 with even vaguely animal notes. Big, burly and autumnal. Quite severe, chewy finish for now. Great sweetness underneath. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2015
17

Dom des Clos, Vieilles Vignes 1926 2003 Beaune

Lightish crimson. Very sweet, “modern” nose. Slightly tarty wine – too much makeup and not enough true vineyard flavour. Not expensive, though. Should appeal to lovers of New World Pinot Noir looking for a bargain. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2007
15.5

Dom Comte Armand 2003 Auxey-Duresses

Very deep crimson. Very, very full and ripe. Sweet and charming. Rich, ripe, cherry flavours. Very, very round and satiny with far more ripeness than usual. Quite unusual, and a good buy. So round and fruity! Very, very well made. Great balance. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2011
17.5

Dom Comte Armand 2003 Pommard

Deep crimson. Sample slightly reduced and fizzy. Difficult to judge. Muted, with fruit suppressed. Stringy finish. Quite delicate matière. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2012
16 ?

Dom Comte Armand, Clos des Epeneaux Premier Cru 2003 Pommard

Cask sample. Very firm, concentrated nose. Lots of density and no shortage of acidity and tannin. This is slightly more like the old Comte Armand style, but with an additional smoothness. Dry finish. Not as magisterial as the Hubert de Montille Les Rugiens. It may take on weight. Already quite full, convincing and round. Powerful cherry flavours with structure and some appetizing vegetal character. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2014
17.5 +

Dom du Comte Liger-Belair, Grand Cru 2003 La Romanée

Heavily perfumed. Scented. Lots of fruit in a quite raw, but admirable, state. A hint of rhubarb rock. Like a wild animal. Real pizzazz. It delivers, though it’s too expensive. Very, very long. It really vibrates on the finish. Difficult to spit. It’s a great story that someone as relatively young and untutored as this is making a wine with such vitality and character. (JR)
Drink
2009
–
2020
19

Dom Confuron-Cotetidot 2003 Bourgogne

Slightly low-key fruit on the nose. Round. Quite juicy on the palate. Lightweight. Tannins are held in check until the very end. “Pretty”. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2010
17

Dom Confuron-Cotetidot 2003 Vosne-Romanée

Quite deep crimson. Strange oak notes on the nose? Lots of sweet fruit to start, then an extremely savage, dry finish. Unbalanced. A bit stringy. Certainly not charming. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2011
16

Dom Confuron-Cotetidot, Grand Cru 2003 Échezeaux

Quite deep on the nose and very, very rich. Very exciting, heady nose. Lovely, round, bright and with good balance. Chew and life and interest and length. Nice bite (as opposed to astringence) on the finish. Really lively. Well done. (JR)
Drink
2009
–
2018
18.5

Dom de Courcel, Les Vaumuriens 2003 Pommard

Cask sample. Deep crimson. Slightly rhubarby nose. Lots of simple fruit at first, but very, very dense and astringent. Raw, but intense and lively. Some freshness. Quite cool. True Pommard but I can’t quite see the elements for greatness, myself. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2013
16

Dom de Courcel, Grand Clos des Epenots Premier Cru 2003 Pommard

Cask sample. Deep crimson. Slightly roasted flavours, then disconcertingly gassy. But there is some substance here. Dry finish, but just about enough cherry fruit. Some vegetal notes on the nose. Sweet, seductive, flattering start. Round. Pretty good. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2015
17.5

Dom de Courcel, Les Rugiens Premier Cru 2003 Pommard

Cask sample. Sweet and seductive. Some slightly toasty/coffee-flavoured oak. Freshness and real Pommard density. Very taut, but a charmer, too, with lots of sweet fruit. Great fruity attack and more or less enough acidity. Bravo! This is very convincing. Real energy and sufficient concentration. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2016
18

Dom Daniel Dampt 2003 Chablis

Cool, classic nose – very refreshing. Quite sweet and ripe on the palate. Drink soonish, but nothing to complain about here. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2008
16.5

Dom Tollot-Beaut 2003 Chorey-lès-Beaune

Quite raw fruit. Quite a bit of acidity and gas. Definitely unformed. Not the confident bargain of most vintages. Rawness. Brutal. Not comfortable. (JR)

Drink
2007
–
2009
15.5

Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Les St-Georges Premier Cru 2003 Nuits-St-Georges

Cask sample. Very dark. There is lots there, but it’s not the freshest sample that I’ve been offered. Fizzy with biodynamic life. Lots of microbugs in there. Very intense, very slightly stewed fruit nose. Lots of character certainly. Thick and quite dry. This may eventually push its way through to a graceful middle age. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2014
17

Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Les Grands Chaillots 2003 Bourgogne

Quite deep. Sweet, round and almost rude and crude on the nose. Tastes as though it was made with huge effort, but ultimately the results are not very comfortable to drink. Tannins a bit too obtrusive. Full marks for trying. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2008
15.5

Simonnet-Febvre 2003 Irancy

Deep crimson with a pale rim. Rather soupy nose. Lots of fruit hits the front palate and there is the real chew of dried fruit here. Certainly not elegant! Will Irancy ever be as thick and ripe again. No shortage of acidity though. Straightforward but short. (JR)

Drink
2005
–
2006
16

Simonnet-Febvre, Vaillons Premier Cru 2003 Chablis

Very alcoholic nose with a hint of filter pad? This strikes me as very heavy, astringent and old fashioned. The Chablis character has difficulty asserting itself through the flab. Short. (JR)
Drink
2004
–
2005
15

Simonnet-Febvre 2003 Chablis

Much fresher than the 2003 with real zest on the nose. Some nice lime character but pretty tart and austere at the moment, Definitely wait! (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2010
15.5

Étienne Sauzet 2003 Puligny-Montrachet

Slightly astringent nose of respectable, please-all Puligny, though without great excitement. Slight foot-dragging. Okay fruit-acid balance. (JR)

Drink
2005
–
2007
16

Dom Guy Roulot 2003 Bourgogne

Light crimson. Vegetal nose. Quite fresh. Nice, easy drink with refreshment, if not too expensive. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2007
16

Dom Rossignol-Trapet 2003 Gevrey-Chambertin

Not expensive but true, authentic (not a common term in 2003 tasting notes), relatively pale, aromatic and charming. Quite scented. Lots of fruit and great delicacy. Bravo! Correct, and it delivers. Quite powerful finish, but (just) not too hot. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2011
17

Dom Rossignol-Trapet 2003 Bourgogne


Powerful fruit on the nose, but a bit severe on the palate. Lots of tannin. It will never quite be in balance. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2007
15

Dom Nicolas Rossignol, Frémiets Premier Cru 2003 Volnay

Cask sample. Very deep crimson. Not very fresh fruit on the nose. Almost more like a liqueur. Sweet, then dry and rich. Definitely more concentration and more successful than the Chevrets. Sweet finish. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2012
17.5

Dom Louis Remy, Grand Cru 2003 Chambertin

Very, very deep colour. Lovely, deep, fruity fragrance. Fantastic. Great, great richness. Broad and sweet. Could drink now. Amazing price though. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2022
19.5

Ch de Puligny-Montrachet 2003 Monthelie

Mid-crimson. Quite sweet and full and mellow. Very successful, if quite light – but then that’s Monthélie. Note of dryness on the finish, but good for current drinking. Acidic finish. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2007
16

Dom Prince Florent de Mérode, Grand Cru 2003 Corton-Les Bressandes

CS Bright, deep crimson. Very, very sweet and round. More balanced than some, though not especially noble. Not too expensive. Spicy. Quite worthy but this desperately needs just a point more acidity to stop it being heavy and foot-dragging. Shame because some of the fruit quality is very appealing. For early drinking. (JR)

Drink
2006
–
2010
17.5

Nicolas Potel 2003 Nuits-St-Georges

Deep crimson. Lots of sap and fruit and roundness. Very flattering. Slightly dry finish. Pretty and easy. Not serious. (JR)

Drink
2006
–
2009
17

Dom Paul Pernot 2003 Puligny-Montrachet

Slightly stinky, but trying hard. Just a bit too old-fashioned. Not pure enough. It has extract, though, and it’s not too flabby. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2007
15.5

Dom J-F Mugnier, Grand Cru 2003 Bonnes Mares

Notes of cheesiness and veg on the nose – quite different from the Chambolle with more marked acidity. Real texture and race but still that amazing sweetness, plus a certain jewelly texture. Still quite light for a grand cru but clear and bright. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2013
17.5

Dom Georges Mugneret, Aux Chaignots Premier Cru 2003 Nuits-St-Georges

Cask sample. Very bright, dark crimson. Scented and lively. Very sweet and gentle. Intense, chewy fruit. Quite vibrant and long. Intense. Definitely 'masculine' when tasted straight after Mortet. Taut beginning, middle and finish. Really lively. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2012
17.5

Dom Mugneret-Gibourg 2003 Vosne-Romanée

Gentle, perfumed, round, and surprisingly forward. Quite satisfying and not out of balance. Deep crimson. Meaty, dense, rich. Lip-smacking. (JR)

Drink
2005
–
2008
17

Dom Thierry Mortet 2003 Bourgogne

Quite light, healthy red. Rather big, burly, bruised fruit. Round and transparent. Not overambitious, nor overextracted. Sensitively made. Distinctively gentle. Tastes healthy. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2006
16

Dom Pierre Morey 2003 Meursault

Stinky, sulphidey nose. Too flabby. Always a bad sign if the producer doesn’t present his wine. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2006
15

Morey Blanc 2003 Bourgogne


A bit hot. Sweaty nose. Lots of tannin. Brutal. Chewy. Very, very tough, though lots of effort and integrity! (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2007
15

Dom de Montille, Les Rugiens Premier Cru 2003 Pommard

Cask sample. Very deep crimson. Almost voluptuous and certainly intriguing and layered on the nose. Real power and stonking concentration. A certain silkiness, too. Very serious. Very, very fine and no hole anywhere in the experience. Lovely coverage of the palate. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2018
19

Dom de Montille, Les Pézerolles Premier Cru 2003 Pommard

Cask sample. Bright crimson. Sweet, almost lolly notes on the nose at first, but then interesting, seductive layers emerge. Dense and yeoman-like on the nose. Again, extraordinarily sweet on the front of the palate, almost at the expense of freshness. Convincing. Sturdy. Quite masculine. Definitely Pommard. Quite fine tannins. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2016
18

Dom de Montille, Les Mitans Premier Cru 2003 Volnay

Cask sample. Firm colour. Quite big and burly on the nose. Then marked acidity on the palate. Still quite firm and definitely grainy. No excess of flesh at the moment – may take it on. Some ink. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2015
17

Dom de Montille 2003 Volnay

Deep colour. Powerful, very slightly rustic, aromas. Very, very sweetened and rather uncharacteristic. Almost raspberry cordial. Flattering. (JR)

Drink
2008
–
2015
17

Lucien Le Moine, Grand Cru 2003 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze

This is a bit much for me. Even though it was picked on 18 August (all Le Moine’s wines were picked quite early) there seems to be a lack of freshness on the nose. It’s all a bit tarty and furry. Exaggerated. (JR)
Drink
2009
–
2014
16.5

Lucien Le Moine, Grand Cru 2003 Clos St-Denis

Lighter and rubier than the Charmes. Flattering coffee bean aromas. Very lively and sweet. You just might be confused as to whether it was burgundy in a blind tasting. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2014
18

Lucien Le Moine, Les Folatières Premier Cru 2003 Puligny-Montrachet

Exceptionally rich and dense. (This is one of those wines into which carbon dioxide was fed over the lees.) Nerveux now, but it almost tastes as though it will stay like this rather than developing. Who can know? This is a very uncommon technique. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2010
17.5

Dom Marquis d'Angerville, Champans Premier Cru 2003 Volnay

Very deep crimson. Sappy, rather extraordinary, opulent nose. Rich and round and jewelly. Lots of exuberant fruit. Very sweet. Very unlike the old style. Slightly dry finish. Difficult for the new regime to be given this vintage as a debut. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2011
17

Dom Lignier-Michelot 2003 Chambolle-Musigny

Dark crimson. Rather exaggerated nose. Not delicate. Big and bumptious. Lots of bang for the buck, but I’m not sure it will age gracefully. (JR)

Drink
2006
–
2010
16.5

Louis Latour 2003 Aloxe-Corton

More fragrant than the Chaillots below. Slightly treacly nose with a little cheesiness but some real life and vivacity compared to the Chaillots. Very chewy end suggests it might be best to wait awhile before attacking this wine. Rather dry finish. (JR)

Drink
2007
–
2012
16.5

Louis Latour, Domaine Latour Premier Cru 2003 Beaune

Very dark crimson. Mushrooms and truffles on the nose already! Rather winning (not as porty and heavy as the Vignes Franches) although it seems more marked by the vintage than by the appellation. Big, and bold. and assertive. A very wide girth this one has. Slightly disconcerting coconut note on the nose as though the oak is not 100% classic. Already very round and fruity – and alcoholic. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2010
16.5

Louis Latour 2003 Nuits-St-Georges

Bright crimson. Quite lively, fresh nose with rather more appellation expression than some. Good balance. No evidence of sweetness or dried grape quality – apart from some slightly dry tannins on the finish. Honest, true, transparent and a very pleasing drink even if without any enormous subtlety. Not big but harmonious. (JR)

Drink
2006
–
2009
17

Dom Louis Latour, Les Vignes Franches Premier Cru 2003 Beaune

Very dark brownish crimson with a pale rim. Sweet, cheesy nose. Very big, bold and porty! Again, there seems to be some residual sugar in this wine. Burgundy but not as we know it today. Extraordinary. Those who hanker after the old Berry Bros bottlings of the 1960s and early 1970s might love this – Doudet Naudin style. And why not? But I have marked it according to my own personal taste for fresher, more delineated burgundy. Dry finish again. (JR)

Drink
2006
–
2010
16

Louis Latour, Morgeot Premier Cru 2003 Chassagne-Montrachet

Light crimson with a hint of purple. Muddy nose – nothing very clear and distinct about it. Also a bit soupy and unexpectedly sweet on the palate. Dry tannins close in on the finish. Rather austere in structure and that candied sweetness is a bit odd. Dry finish. Certainly not classic!< (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2009
16 -

Louis Latour 2003 Marsannay

Deep crimson. Relatively evolved nose with unusually attractive freshness for a 2003. Now this seems to have some race and soul. Lively without much raisin character. Relatively simple but a good wine for early drinking. Just a little tannic still. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2008
16.5

Louis Latour 2003 Côte de Beaune-Villages

Mid healthy crimson. Sweet cloud of boiled sweet aromas plus something a little woody. Quite good attack but no real soul. Mid weight, quite chewy. Alcohol notable on the finish. Hot. (JR)

Drink
2006
–
2008
15.5

Louis Latour 2003 Bourgogne

Mid crimson (much paler than the Irancy). Some autumnal mulch on the nose and lots of acidity and tannin on the palate. Very little charm! Austere, tart finish. Dries the palate at the end. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2006
15

Louis Latour, Grand Cru 2003 Bâtard-Montrachet

Much more nerve and excitement on the nose than the Corton-Charlemagne. Weight, opulence and (relative) excitement – though not truly, truly thrilling. This certainly has weight – and 14% alcohol like the Corton-Charlemagne. There’s a certain tension in the undercurrent. Remarkably open though for a grand cru of less than two years old. Tingle of life but arguably middle-aged before its time. (JR)

14%
Drink
2005
–
2012
17.5

Dom Louis Latour, Grand Cru 2003 Corton-Charlemagne

This wine was a bit reduced on the nose when I tasted it. Certainly there is no grand cru glamour at the moment – just lots of alcohol but not an enormous amount of flavour or excitement. Edge of filter pad? Not nearly as exciting as the 2002 currently stocked by Majestic with its telltale almond note. We must hope that it grows into greatness. Still quite astringent. Alcohol but not remarkable depth. Just sweet and simple at the moment. (JR)

14%
Drink
2008
–
2014
16.5 +

Louis Latour, La Garenne Premier Cru 2003 Puligny-Montrachet

Very light nose. Sweet and muscular. No real distinction at the moment but perhaps it’s just brooding? Too sweet on the finish for my palate – not exciting or nervy enough. But let’s hope it will grow into being a more intriguing wine. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2011
16.5

Louis Latour, Les Gouttes d'Or Premier Cru 2003 Meursault

Gold. Real personality. A bit of oak and a bit of sulphides but there is fruit here that sparkles and some lemon cream character that distinguishes it from an oaked Chardonnay from anyway. Some savour and attack. Grainy texture. Density and life. Still very slightly chewy. Good acidity – a green streak, tant mieux. (JR)

Drink
2006
–
2010
17

Louis Latour, Aux Cras Premier Cru 2003 Beaune

Deep gold with no hint of green. Very lightly smoky nose. Heavy, alcoholic, a bit loose and formless. Water and alcohol in the ascendant to the detriment of flavour and extract. Very hot finish. (JR)
Drink
2005
15.5

Louis Latour 2003 Pouilly-Fuissé

Attractive lemony raciness, and a little oak, on the nose. Quite full bodied and opulent with a green creamy streak. Not bad. Not that much individuality but very competent. Certainly serviceable. Quite long. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2007
16

Louis Latour 2003 Chablis

Not very clearly Chablis on the nose – quite fat on the palate. Sweet start – oddly lacking in green fruit or wet stone flavours for a Chablis but a perfectly serviceable drink. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2007
15.5

Louis Latour, Les Genièvres 2003 Mâcon-Lugny

Again, quite deep gold. A bit more freshness than the wine above on the nose. But awfully dull and hot on the palate. Very difficult to justify the price. Other vintages have had more clarity and fruit. Very short. (JR)

Drink
2005
14.5

Louis Latour 2003 Mâcon-Villages

Quite dark gold. Simple. open nose. Some slightly underripe(!) notes on the palate – difficult to see how this could be in 2003! very short and slightly astringent without much delightful fruit character in the middle. If this were behind a supermarket’s own label rather than one of Louis Latour’s super-elegant ones, you wouldn’t give it a second thought. (JR)
Drink
2005
14

Dom Hubert Lamy, Les Castets Premier Cru 2003 St-Aubin

Very deep crimson. Sweet, slightly low-key nose. Lots of fruit and charm if not the most refreshing wine. Quite dry tannins on the finish. Lots of personality. Not expensive. Truly an exceptional wine in the context of St-Aubin. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2010
16.5

Dom Hubert Lamy, Les Frionnes Premier Cru 2003 St-Aubin

Interesting life and liquorice on the nose. Ripe pears. Broadcasts life. Fairly sweet, but rewarding as an inexpensive, ready white Saint Aubin. Another of those Saint Aubins with unaccustomed ripeness, and liveliness, too. Real nerve and still slightly astringent on the finish. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2007
16.5

Dom des Lambrays, Grand Cru 2003 Clos des Lambrays

Cask sample. Bright, deep crimson. Low key, but relatively complex nose and lots there on the palate. Teenage, but should get there. Sweet, round, and fruity. Oak a little too prominent? Lots of fruit in there. Excellent tannin management, but is there something just a little overworked about this? (JR)
Drink
2009
–
2017
18

Dom des Lambrays 2003 Morey-St-Denis

Dark, healthy crimson. Very light nose. Sweet, gentle palate entry. Quite marked fruit impact. Fine tannin quality, though I wonder about the acidity. A good mouthful. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2010
16.5

Dom Rémi Jobard, En Luraule 2003 Meursault


Cask sample.
Heavy nose with some liquorice notes. The satin texture appeals, and it has a bit more acidity than some. Round. Pretty masterful. Quite long. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2011
17

Dom Rémi Jobard 2003 Bourgogne


Cask sample.
Slight wet wool on the nose. Dense. Good matière, but too convoluted to appeal. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2008
15.5

Dom Jayer-Gilles, Les Chenevery Premier Cru 2003 Morey-St-Denis

Quite deep crimson. Rather more harmonious than the Morey Vieilles Vignes or the Gevrey-Chambertin. Not 100% fresh fruit on the nose, though no shortage of acidity on the palate. A bit awkward at this stage. Still lots of oak in evidence. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2012
16.5

Dom Alain Jeanniard 2003 Gevrey-Chambertin

A bit purer than the Morey Vieilles Vignes. Good rich fruit, though very obvious acidity and tannin. Not a pleasure to drink at this stage. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2010
16.5

Dom Louis Jadot, Grand Cru 2003 Clos de Vougeot

Lightish crimson. Lively, relatively tense for a 2003 red burgundy, almost as though it has been acidified. A bit mean and unyielding at present. Pretty sulky. Some core of bitter cherry fruit. (JR)

Drink
2009
–
2015
17

Dom Louis Jadot, Grand Cru 2003 Chapelle-Chambertin

The nose is still a bit raw. Lots of quite grainy tannins but quite supple and fine on the palate. Just a note of dried fruits on the finish. Still quite hard work. I may well be underestimating this. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2015
17.5 +

Louis Jadot, Les Beaux Monts Premier Cru 2003 Vosne-Romanée

Cask sample. Very deep crimson. Extremely embryonic compared to the wines above. Lots of matière – very impressive, but still surly. Not sweet like so many wines above, just dense and brooding and convincing. Dry notes on the finish seem to come more from the barrel than raisined grapes (?) (JR)
Drink
2010
–
2018
18

Dom Louis Jadot 2003 Chambolle-Musigny

Interesting velvety, nutty nose. Pretty severely dried fruit on the palate. Best option is surely to wait out those tannins though it’s impossible to say whether the fruit will hang around long enough. (JR)
Drink
16.5

Dom Louis Jadot, Le Vaucrain 2003 Côte de Nuits-Villages

Very deep colour for the appellation. Sweet, broad and slightly jammy with quite marked tannins. Chewy finish. May never have quite enough fruit on the mid palate though it certainly was not made from underripe grapes. (JR)

Drink
2007
–
2010
16

Louis Jadot, Clos de la Commaraine Premier Cru 2003 Pommard

Very firm deep crimson. Something distinctly, and distinctively, mossy and vegetal about this nose. Really very majestic and round. Extraordinarily developed but very satisfying. Long and already quite complex. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2012
18

Ch des Jacques Louis Jadot, Clos de Rochegrès 2003 Moulin-à-Vent

Cask sample.

Deep crimson and powerful ripe nose. Extremely “sweet” on the nose with some dried fruit flavours rather than fresh fruit flavours and no shortage of tannin. Very big and certainly not classic. Needs time. Very dry tannins on the finish. (JR)

Drink
2008
–
2013
16

Louis Jadot, Grand Cru 2003 Bâtard-Montrachet

Very full, almost oily (not a common tasting note for white burgundy). Rich and round and satiny. Lots of concentration and alcohol but, as yet, very little flavour. A big, bold thing but I think in this vintage being super-ripe does not carry the premium it does in other, less naturally ripe, vintages. For my money I’d go for two bottles of the Chassagne Clos de la Chapelle. (JR)

Drink
2008
–
2015
17

Dom Louis Jadot, Genevrières Premier Cru 2003 Meursault

Within the context of appellation and vintage, this is almost austere! Full and round and full blown without being particularly complex. Quite a hot finish, but a lovely texture. Just a bit stolid. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2009
16.5

Dom Gagey Louis Jadot, Les Grèves Le Clos Blanc Premier Cru 2003 Beaune

Quite intense and intriguing nose with some green fruit ripeness and the acidity much better integrated than in the Santenay above. A bit of astringence on the finish but really quite an impressive package. Quite nerveux. Grainy, appetizing texture. Quite pretty for the vintage. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2008
17

Dom Louis Jadot, Clos de Malte 2003 Santenay

Hot, alcoholic nose gives way to great intense, ripe, almost tropical fruit flavours and then quite searing acidity. Certainly much bigger and bolder style of wine than average. Should provide short-term pleasure, though certainly not complex. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2007
15.5

Dom Hudelot-Noëllat 2003 Chambolle-Musigny

Mid-crimson. Sweet, cherry flavour. Not totally pure aromas. But very flattering and sweet fruit on the palate. Very fresh and ripe. Some life and dryness on the finish. Good breadth. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2010
16.5

Dom Franck Grux, Les Meix Chavaux 2003 Meursault

Lean, lemony nose. Quite fine, and no excessive 2003 characters. Well balanced and refreshing. This may be thanks to added acid, but the overall result is very pleasing. (JR)

Drink
2005
–
2008
17

Dom A-F Gros, Grand Cru 2003 Richebourg

Scented, but with a weary sigh rather than a breath of fresh air. Lively acidity and definite fruit weight. Much more successful than the Echézeaux. Dense but not fine. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2015
17

Dom A-F Gros, Grand Cru 2003 Échezeaux

As with the Aux Réas, there is a certain cheesy weariness on the nose. Some brightness on the palate, but still the fruit is not fresh enough for the price. Lots of weight and tannin. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2012
16.5

Dom A-F Gros, Aux Réas 2003 Vosne-Romanée

Quite thick and heavily scented on the nose. Animal fur? Relatively lightweight on the palate. Fruit not the freshest. Something a bit tired about this. CS (JR)

Drink
2006
–
2008
16.5

Dom A-F Gros 2003 Chambolle-Musigny

Light, but perfectly formed, on the nose. Lots of charming fruit on the palate. No great length or apparent potential, though. (JR)

Drink
2006
–
2008
16.5

Dom Jean Grivot, Grand Cru 2003 Clos de Vougeot

Very, very deep crimson. Strong perfume and a wonderful spread of fruit across the palate. Very chewy, but I think it will get there in the end – there is certainly enough of a core and lots going on in its not-entirely-evident-yet depths. (JR)

Drink
2012
–
2022
??

Dom Jean Grivot, Grand Cru 2003 Clos de Vougeot

Very, very deep. Intense. Quite painful and exaggerated. A broad nose and lots of intensity on the palate. Definite bite. Needs ages. Such harsh tannins. I preferred his 2002s. (JR)

Drink
2012
–
2022
18

Dom Jean Grivot, Les Lavières 2003 Nuits-St-Georges

Deep crimson. Concentrated and – for Grivot prices – charming on the nose. Lots of ripe cherry flavours. Very soft and fruity. Really different from the rest of the Grivots. Very, very ripe. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2013
17.5

Dom Jean Grivot 2003 Vosne-Romanée

Deep crimson. Very lively and brutal on the nose. Sweet start. Really does taste wild. Uncompromising and very youthful. Quite “wild” tasting. Lots of fruit and nature in the glass. But very firm tannins. In this case, the wine is very lively, so will probably be okay. (JR)
Drink
2009
–
2016
17

Dom Henri Gouges, Les Pruliers Premier Cru 2003 Nuits-St-Georges

Cask sample. Deep crimson. Sweet, spicy nose. Definitely 'cool' on the front of the palate. Very restrained. Correct. A beginning, middle, and end. No excesses. This tastes as though the vines are very old and very comfortable. Assured, but will this take on weight? Definitely a bit sullen at the moment. (JR)
Drink
2009
–
2015
??

Camille Giroud, Les Guérets Premier Cru 2003 Aloxe-Corton

Lovely seductive nose. Perfumed, sweet, rich with good, integrated acidity too. Silky, mouthfilling (the only 2003 I have written this word about!). Lots to chew on but great ripe tannins. It has masses of alcohol but hides it well. No hot finish. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2017
18

Camille Giroud 2003 Santenay

Bit of savoury oak and some oak tannins. Lively and savoury – very attractive fruit thought. Transparent. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2010
16

Vincent Girardin, Grand Cru 2003 Corton

Quite bright crimson. Full, quite opulent nose. But not the intensity of a grand cru. Competent, but not desperately exciting. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2013
17

Vincent Girardin, Santenots Premier Cru 2003 Volnay

Bright crimson. Pointu, sharp and directed, cool nose. Lots of fruit on the front of the palate. Very charming. The spread across the palate is impressive. Chewy finish, but not excessively so. Very lively. (JR)

Drink
2006
–
2011
17 +

Vincent Girardin 2003 Puligny-Montrachet

Deep lemon cream flavours. Quite soft. Pleasant short-term drink but the rest of the world has been catching up on this style. Again, the acidity seemed to stick out on the palate, especially on the finish. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2007
16

Vincent Girardin 2003 Marsannay

Deep crimson. Very fresh nose. Lots of fruit and roundness. Much broader than most Marsannays. Slightly pinched finish. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2007
15.5

Ch de Fuissé 2003 St-Véran

Lots of alcohol and not much definition. A bit livelier and cleaner than some vintages, though. Loose. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2006
15

Dom Follin-Arbelet, Grand Cru 2003 Romanée-St-Vivant

Deep and very, very healthy red. Very dense and thick. So sweet and gorgeous! The first 2003 that I have had difficulty spitting. Real power. Real fruit. Lots of very, very ripe tannins underneath. Quite alcoholic. (JR)

Drink
2008
–
2018
19

Dom Follin-Arbelet, Grand Cru 2003 Corton-Les Bressandes

Very deep crimson. Very slight hint of cheesiness on the nose. But very opulent, seductive, sweet, raspberry fruit on the palate. Sweet, round and winning though no excess of acidity… Perhaps the oak is slightly too dominant at this stage. Very engaging though. Good structure. Very glamorous. Long. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2014
18

Jean-Philippe Fichet, Les Chevalières 2003 Meursault

Dense and thick. Real intensity. Approaching grand cru quality, or at least grand cru 2003 quality. Quite fine and delicate and dancing. Quite a different texture to the standard Meursault and Les Gruyaches. Quite crunchy. Needs time. Dry and savoury – unlike so many 2003 whites. Bravo! (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2012
18

Jean-Philippe Fichet 2003 Meursault

Rich and creamy. Proper Meursault. A good corset of acidity. Green and cream. Quite classic and exciting. Lovely, silky texture. Bravo! Quite open, though. Don’t keep. Sweetish. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2008
16.5

Jean-Philippe Fichet, Vieilles Vignes 2003 Bourgogne

Very, very rich and concentrated. Thick and dense, but true. Definitely Burgundy, not New World Chardonnay. Spice and fruit. Integrity and excitement. Very round. Great texture, even at this price. Long. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2006
16.5

Dom William Fèvre 2003 Chablis

Powerful, almost “heavy” nose. Slightly floral. Sweet start. Competent attack, but big rather than classic. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2006
14.5

Dom René Engel, Grand Cru 2003 Clos de Vougeot

Only mid crimson. Fully exotic, round and charming. Not a great core of fruit in the middle. Slightly more vegetal than usual. A bit more restrained than Les Brûlées on the nose, then a great whack of ripe fruit on the palate. Very impressive. Pretty fierce tannins, but the fruit is good. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2016
18

Dom René Engel, Aux Brûlées Premier Cru 2003 Vosne-Romanée

Cask sample. Scented, sweet nose with lots of fruit. Still quite unevolved. Lots of acidity. Only half formed. About another sample I wrote: Very rich and attractive and flattering. A round and wonderful spread of ripe fruit. Bravo! But I scored both highly. (JR)
Drink
2007
–
2014
17.5

Dom René Engel 2003 Vosne-Romanée

Mid-crimson. Quite interesting flavours and raciness. Round and very, very fruity. Not self-conscious about being slightly light. Confident, juicy red Burgundy. Very, very juicy. Actually, almost like top Moulin-à-Vent (which would be cheaper). Great drink though. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2011
17

Dom Dupont-Tisserandot, Les Cazetiers Premier Cru 2003 Gevrey-Chambertin

Very deep crimson. Exceptionally ripe and just possibly dangerously unstable but certainly very dramatic, extremely glamorous and sweet. Rather muddy nose, but lots of ripe fruit and a certain silkiness offsets a potentially drying finish. Quite impressive, but not a coup de coeur. Solid. (JR)
Drink
2008
–
2013
17

Dom Dupont-Tisserandot 2003 Marsannay

Mid crimson. Good scent and acid, though, amazingly for this vintage – actually too tart! And a bit too obviously oaky to boot. (JR)

Drink
2006
–
2007
15

Dom Drouhin-Laroze 2003 Gevrey-Chambertin

Dark crimson. Some quite lively, cherry scent. Punchy. Quite vibrant. Quite dark and vibrant, but respectable, especially for the money. Tannins just this side of too dry. (JR)
Drink
2006
–
2010
16.5 +

Maison Deux Montille, Grand Cru 2003 Corton-Les Renardes

Relatively light crimson. Very fresh and sweet on the nose. Very, very charming already. Lovely dancing fruit. Gentle. Not a whore (see Alix de Montille in the film Mondovino). Quite delicate. Could enjoy this enormously tonight. Not big. A little fine tannin underneath. (JR)
Drink
2005
–
2009
18

Dom de la Famille Mommessin, Grand Cru 2003 Clos de Tart

CS. Deep crimson. Thick and sweet and spicy. More sweetness than practically any other Burgundy wine. So much flattery – can it be good for one? Almost reminiscent of a Fisherman’s Friend throat lozenge. Drying, but treacle-sweet and spicy and very intense. Some will love this, others will hate it. (JR)

Drink
2006
–
2018
18.5


DOMAINE JACQUES CACHEUX ET FILS

GV – Domaine Jacques Cacheux et Fils, Nuits Saint Georges Au Bas de Combe 2003 16.5 Drink 2006-11

Bright crimson. Boiled sweets-cherry flavour. Lots of fruit and charm. Broad.

Mont £159.00 ib

Domaine Jacques Cacheux et Fils, Vosne-Romanée 2003 16.5 Drink 2006-11

Broad and easy. Charming. Fine, but firm, tannins. Inky finish.

Mont £169.00 ib

Domaine Jacques Cacheux et Fils, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots 2003 17 Drink 2006-12

Quite powerful, with lots of fruit. Relatively delicate, but there...