The most extensive tasting report on California Chenin Blanc ever. Above, a cluster of Chenin Blanc from Williams Selyem’s Vista Verde vineyard (photo courtesy of Rococo Wines).
As we see bell-bottomed jeans resurface from what we thought was the dustbin of history, we have to accept the recurrent nature of fashion. In the world of wine, we’ve certainly now come to expect the rediscovery (or resurrection from near extinction) of ancient grape varieties, as dedicated producers reclaim a regional heritage lost for many generations. The resurgence of a grape variety only recently discarded by a wine region’s producers, however, is...