Last week's Copa Jerez food and sherry matching competition was a revelation in how versatile Andalucía's most underrated wine is. Indeed, if I have one criticism of the choices of the six nationally qualifying contestants, it is that they didn't choose enough of the most obvious food partners – light, pale, dry Finos and Manzanillas. Out of the 18 wines chosen in total, we had one Fino, three Manzanillas and a much older Manzanilla Pasada, yet we had eight sherries with some sort of sweetness even though only four of the 18 dishes were actually desserts. Go figure, as they...