Italian masterpieces

This selection of tasting notes is thanks mostly to British importer Armit, whose Italians could easily furnish a national gallery of wine. The maestros are all familiar names – some classic, some modern – but that is no criticism. It might be called a conventional collection, but that doesn't undermine the quality of the wines.

Additionally, there is a clutch of Cantina Terlano wines in the Alto Adige wing that were tasted at a remarkable lunch hosted by their importers Astrum Wine Cellars earlier this year. It was my first visit to Restaurant Gordon Ramsey on Royal Hospital Road, and...