Natural wine defined, but not definitively

[Also see David Schildknecht's notes for a winewriter's perspective from across the pond.]

Biodynamics is so 2009. The very latest way to raise hackles is the phrase ‘natural wine’, which is currently fuelling online discussions all around the web (and a book, currently being written by Geoffrey Roberts Award 2010 runner-up Alice Feiring).

The politest debate is, as ever, on the forum here in the cradle of civilised wine comment. Elsewhere, the debate is more spiky, such as recently on Jamie Goode's and Oliver Styles’ blogs. A swift Google offers up plenty of other, still more agitated, conversations.

Many...