Any discussion of Pinot Noir is likely sooner or later to touch on clones. One, but by no means the only one, reason why Pinots in places like Oregon and New Zealand taste so unlike red burgundy is because they are based on non-Burgundian clones of Pinot. Because Pinot Noir is such a transparent wine, it tends to exhibit clonal differences much more clearly than, say, various Cabernets. (I was going to add ‘and Merlots’ but then was reminded that some think part of the reason for Merlot’s relative lack of success in Australia is that the wrong clones are...