Oxygen-obsessed Parusso

During Nebbiolo Prima, I was invited to taste eight vintages of Armando Parusso's Bussia going back to the mythical vintage 1999. I felt it my duty to comply. The Armando Parusso estate is run by Marco Parusso and his sister Tiziana in Monforte d'Alba, the commune of Bussia fame, and it is on this hill that Parusso have some of their finest plots.

Parusso is often considered a true modernist because of his enthusiastic use of new French oak, at least for his Bussia. However, his aim is not to be modernist, or the reverse for that matter. This man...