Putting wine in context

Once upon a time, there was a wine magazine called Winemagazine. If you don't remember it, and/or don't live in the UK where it was published, you can probably imagine it: it contained news about wine, articles about wine, and the results of themed, blind panel tastings of wine. For a few years, it also ran a more unusual feature, entitled The Sommelier Challenge.

This was essentially a pro food-and-wine pairing competition. Each month a recipe would be selected and despatched to a commendably international clutch of contestants, who each suggested their two best wine matches in return. Bottles...