This was a tasting ten years and several centuries in the making. The purpose was to mark the first decade of production of the Royal Tokaji wine company, whose inaugural vintage was 1990. But these wines represent not just an ambitious commercial endeavour but also the fulfilment of quality potential that originates in the 1700s.
It was at that time that the great vineyards of the Tokaj region of Hungary were originally classified into first-, second- and third-growth sites, with an additional great-first-growth status for just two vineyards. Fast forward to the mid twentieth century, however, and decades of Communist...