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Sella & Mosca and the pull of Cabernet Sauvignon

Walter and Giovanni Pinna

Walter’s uncharacteristic praise for a fine Italian Cabernet Sauvignon, this one from Sardinia, with tasting notes on a mini-vertical, is followed by the previously untold and fascinating history of its producer Sella & Mosca. Walter and oenologist Giovanni Pinna are pictured here.

Regular readers of JancisRobinson.com might just be aware that I am not an enthusiast of French varieties in Italy, notably Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. From the late 1970s, these varieties were planted at great speed in the erroneous belief that they qualitatively outperformed Italian indigenous varieties, while many producers tried to copy Bordeaux, often just to get a...