Last August, in my researches for Jerez unfortified – a glimpse into the future, I visited the vineyards of Jerez and Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and tasted in the various Grupo Estévez wineries and ageing cellars, with walking encyclopaedia Eduardo Ojeda. Ojeda (seen here on the right with long-standing vineyard manager Pedro Raposo in the Miraflores vineyard in Sanlúcar) has sherry in his veins, albariza dust on his shoes (and car), and in 2017 completed his 39th vintage in the so-called sherry triangle. He believes that new life will come to the region through the younger generation but that they...