Who are we and who do we want to be?
This is the question some are asking at the heart of the Jerez triangle.
Do we want to continue to make excellent fortified wines that fall into two main categories, based on whether they are aged biologically under flor or oxidatively without the influence of this film-forming yeast? Or do we want to rediscover and reinvent, possibly refine, the unfortified styles of the past that highlight more transparently the uniqueness of their Jerez–Sanlúcar origins without denigrating the distinctiveness of the fortified sherry treasures, so frequently undervalued and underpriced, that adhere...