The revenge of Pinotage

I reckon the most controversial wine in the world would be biodynamic, 'natural' and made from Pinotage. Nothing quite polarises opinion like those three. I have no idea whether such a wine actually exists (ignorance being very much bliss), so these tasting notes will address only the last element.

The arguments for and against Pinotage have been hashed out many times before. The distinctive singed / rubbery / banana flavours that are so provocative do, for me at least, undeniably exist – but in increasingly few examples. Instead, it seems understanding of how to craft the grape into a more...