Vino contro la mafia

Charities which focus on the production of wines can expect to elicit the same reaction most organic wines have provoked: it is laudable but is the product any good? I must admit I had similar thoughts when I first heard of Centopassi, a Sicilian co-operative located in the heartland of the Cosa Nostra, Corleone. For most people, just hearing the village's name will conjure up all kinds of romantic if violent clichés, fed mostly by endless reruns of The Godfather, but from my own experience I remember Corleone as a sinister place. Sheltered, or hidden, depending on the point of...