2011 Grosses Gewächs – part 2

Quite deep golden hue suggests very late picking, possibly some botrytis. Still quite restrained on the nose, but the palate excels with an intriguing combination of yellow fruit, herbal notes and minerally undertones. The herbaceous influence of spontaneous fermentation will need a little time to mellow, but substance and depth of flavour make this a serious contender. Can the Mosel get its GG act together? Yes, it can! (MS)

Herbaceous aromas include a touch of green pepper. Seems a little sweeter than the ‘ordinary’ Marienburg, but the juicy citrus fruit is dusted with a serious minerally sprinkling. If this wine could speak it would do so with a gravelly voice. Great concentration of flavour which will take time to unravel. (MS)

Though spontaneous fermentation notes make their presence felt, the Fahrlay does also show a hand of herbs and spices. Clemens Busch does not force yeasts to devour every last gram of residual sugar, and there is a gentle sweetness that is well integrated into a complex exhibition of minerality, fruit and herbal elements. (MS)

Trocken will probably never be the greatest strength of this vineyard, although fresh and sweet pear flavours have been favourably partnered with a fine yet firm acidity to flatter the sensory perception. In terms of harmony and elegance, Wegeler’s Doctor cannot be faulted. (MS)

The consistency in the Laurentiuslay Grosse Gewächse over the last vintages is their propitious exhibition of citrus fruit and the 2011 does not fail to deliver. Zesty peel notes add a refreshingly pithy appeal. This is one of the gentler kind of Grosse Gewächse and some may say that it lacks punch, but great does not necessarily equal power. (MS)

Essentially Grosse Gewächse are dry wines, but an almost tropical exhibition of fruit manages to mellow the trocken impact of the Apotheke. Has all the charm and expression of the classic Trittenheimer at only a fraction of the traditional residual sugar. (MS)

Very dry is not the wont of Grans-Fassian’s grands crus and the Hofberg with its deep colour and delicate scent of cobbler’s glue appears to reflect a smidgeon of botrytis. The fruit is very ripe with a hint of quince. More full bodied than its siblings from the same stable, the wine also exhibits a rich texture and lingering finish. (MS)

Spontaneous fermentation does not have to be in your face, and the delicate herbaceous expression fits in perfectly with the harmonious exhibition of juicy fruit, fine acidity and supple body. Add a dash of spice and a dab of minerality, generous texture and appealing freshness, and you have one of the best Grosse Gewächse not just of the Mosel but the whole of Germany. (MS)

The spicy and quite aromatic character of the Sonnenuhr differs sufficiently from the Juffer to justify a separate edition that may also appear slightly drier in expression. A generous and juicy grapefruit flavour is peppered with a serious dose of slaty minerality. The ample body and great length of finish complete an outstanding grand cru. (MS)

With its apricoty, almost Viognier-like fragrance, Haart has given his Goldtröpchen a very idiosyncratic interpretation which appears to owe at least some of its expression to the process of barrel fermentation. A notion of pine seems to confirm that theory. On the conventional side we are treated to ripe peach and just a dab of minerality. There is enough substance to suggest that more subtle and complex characteristics may emerge in time. (MS)

Quite closed, delicate notes of exotic fruit. On the palate the fruit is more local, apple and pear, with an almost rasping lemony acidity. Finishes with a tang of fresh apple peel. Definitely racy, quite long. (MS)

Attractive fragrance of fresh yellow fruit finds further expression on the palate in clean and juicy fruit flavour, supported by generous texture and full body. Almost for instant consumption. (MS)

Sightly on the sweeter side of the trocken scale, the Sonnenuhr manages to balance the residual sugar with a fair dab of acidity. Not one of the big punchers on the Grosse Gewächse scene, the wine charms with fresh green fruit and a delicate aromatic notion. (MS)

Restrained green fruit aromas are supported by a subtle notion of spice. A lively acidity puts a refreshing spin on the relatively sweet expression of apple and grapefruit flavours. A dash of cloves and a delicate dab of minerality round off a harmonious performance. (MS)

The Prälat shines with a generous expression of fruit which includes peach, pear and melon. A fresh acidity provides plenty of backbone and further interest is added by a herbal tangent and the merest hint of botrytis. (MS)

Call me a philistine, but the Treppchen has never rocked my Grosses Gewächse boat. ‘De gustibus non est disputandum’ and this man’s impression of sweet and sour could well be another (wo)man’s delight of lively acidity in perfect harmony with sweet fruit flavours. The finish is slightly earthy. (MS)

The nose does not give away much at this early stage. The palate seems to veer towards the upper limit of residual sugar and would have benefited from a little more acidity. Certainly weighty, if not a bit flat, but a touch of spice adds a certain je ne sais quoi. (MS)

The olfactory promise of ripe yellow fruit and just a hint of lanolin is fulfilled by an almost tropical fruit flavour. A light herbal note adds interest, though body beats grace into second place. (MS)

Very gentle aromas of meadow flowers and herbs lead to an equally delicate flavour of ripe green fruit with refreshing acidity and a silky texture. Dainty but perfectly formed. (MS).

Nose quite mute at this early stage, just gently perfumed. Green and yellow fruit flavour is backed up by a kernely, almost nutty tang. The rich texture expresses the generosity of the vintage, but there is still enough acidity to reflect the racy Ruwer provenance. (MS)

Delicate citrus fruit notes are ably supported by a gentle spicy touch. A crisp acidity makes the mouth water and produces a very refreshing style of Grosses Gewächs. (MS)

Mouth-watering and succulent green fruit with touches of apple, pear and melon produce a really animating Grosses Gewächs. A pithy bite and spicy finish add further interest, and all ends well with a lovely texture. (MS).

Quite restrained on the nose, but faint apricot and mandarin aromas appear to hint at barrel fermentation. On the palate the fruit turns to a more conventional expression of ripe peach which is ably complemented by a light minerally touch. Supple and with good length, the Doctor shows that he can do trocken too. (MS)

The Josephshöfer does not rely as much on fruit as Kesselstatt’s other Grosse Gewächse, and exhibits some gentle herbal, even vegetal aromas. This could be down to a touch of wild yeasts, but is well buffered by an ample body and a rich mouthfeel. Definitely finishes on a herbal note and may need a little more time to develop its appeal than some of its siblings from the same stable. (MS)

Quite spirity on the nose, aromas equally shared by citrus fruit and meadow herbs. Certainly on the drier side of Kesselstatt’s GG editions. Shows the customary elegance of this site, but 2011 has also given the Sonnenuhr generous body and texture. (MS)

Big on herbaceous aromas of spontaneous fermentation at this early stage, but Thomas Haag does not believe in flattery to deceive. The palate opens with a lightly medicinal taste, but this is soon superseded by some fine citrus fruit flavours. There is a gentle quinine minerality that complements grapefruit juice, flesh and pith to perfection. Plenty of edge at the moment, but substance and length bear great promise. (MS)

The aftermath of roaming wild yeasts is still prevalent at this stage, herbaceous and medicinal aromas dominating the nose. On the palate the Juffer Sonneuhr packs a powerful punch of almost exotic fruit and raw minerality. In terms of substance and impact this is impressive, but it will take time to chisel the finer features that undoubtedly lie underneath the presently rough exterior. (MS)

Ripe yellow fruit aromas are well supported by an attractive spicy fragrance. On the palate the mouthwatering flavour of sweet and juicy grapefruit is well supported by notes of pith and clove. The authenticity of the 2011 is reflected by a really creamy texture and ample body, though a subtle bitter edge prevents any danger of slipping into the flabby zone. (MS)

A lightly medicinal herbaceous aroma may indicate the activity of wild yeasts. On the palate the classic appley appeal is accompanied by some fine bitter notes of peel. Full bodied and with an almost warming mouthfeel. (MS)

A slightly singed fragrance seems to suggest a wine in a phase of transition. The owner of this estate is the moderator of the German equivalent of ‘Who wants to be a millionaire’ and I guess that I shall never win it now. (MS)

Blackcurrant flower and gooseberry aromas almost scream Sauvignon Blanc and on the palate earthy and vegetal flavours combine with lots of body and very little acidity to produce a very idiosyncratic Riesling GG. (MS)

Is there such a thing as peach perfume? But why splash it all over when you can drink it? Peach, melon and citrus fruit are combined in a delightfully juicy expression and, though the acidity is restrained, the Rausch never lacks in freshness. As with most of Zilliken’s wines I expect further refinement will come with time but this is dangerously drinkable now. (MS)

Delicate citrus notes and a gentle apricot scent bear some promise, but the palate appears quite phenolic in its expression. A little sweet grapefruit adds some attraction to an otherwise fairly straightforward wine. (MS)

Herbaceous attack of wild yeasts does not make this instantly attractive though credit needs to be given for a successful pairing of fresh green fruit and lively acidity on the palate. Worth revisiting when the spontaneous effect has mellowed. (MS)

Peardrops and citrus fruit aromas are followed by a sweeter shade of trocken. A crisp acidity keeps things fresh and pleasant, but the real excitement is missing. (MS)

Sweet and sour seems to be the direction taken for Barth’s Erste Gewächse, and a gentle kiwi flavour adds an aromatic touch to the Hassel. A creamy texture is another plus, but does not take the wine beyond very agreeable. (MS)

Attractive yellow fruit, but too sweet for my liking and could do with a little more acidity. (MS)

A delicate exotic fragrance finds confirmation on the tastebuds with a juicy expression of grapefruit and orange including a nice tang of zesty peel. Though quite sweet, the wine is not dominated by the sugars and there is enough substance to believe in further development. (MS)

Attractive fresh green fruit scent gets the backing of sweet juicy apple and melon flavour. Maybe not the most complex, but invigorating and with enough acidity to last for a few years. (MS)

Still a little yeasty, but fresh peach and nectarine aromas are declaring their intent. On the palate the fruit is partnered by a deft minerally touch and the zest of green peel. Moderation in the residual sugar department is well rewarded by a fresh and racy character. (MS)

Once in a while a wine gets you right between the nostrils, and I have no idea where my perception of milk chocolate and butterscotch hailed from. I have to admit that my olfactory perception of a sweet shop stood corrected on the palate, where a lively acidity provided refreshing relief. Pleasant and harmonious enough in its sweet and sour combination, Eser’s Lenchen showed not enough else to play in the premier league of great growths. (MS)

Green fruit aromas are supplemented with a gentle herbal notion. The palate opens with a crisp appley taste, and in an uncomplicated way the combination of fresh sweet fruit and lively acidity is pleasant and harmonious. The finish is a little on the short side. (MS)

Lightly tropical with an attractive notion of lime. A delicate salty tang brings a little extra to the exotic fruit. Though a little on the sweet side, the fair substance lifts the Berg Rottland beyond the merely pleasant. (MS)

The opening attraction is provided by a gentle peach aroma, and expectations are not let down by a crisp and fresh expression of grapefruit and peach flavours. Further intrigue is added by a delicate salty tang. Thoroughly enjoyable in its harmony of fruit, acidity and well-judged measure of residual sugar. (MS)

Reticent on the nose with a gentle yeasty aroma. Grapefruit and pear take on a quite phenolic expression with notes of pith and peel. The slightly bitter edge gives the Pfaffenwies some interest, but maybe not enough grand cru appeal. (MS)

A delicate apricoty aroma makes for an attractive opening, and the fresh and juicy fruit flavour that follows does not let expectations down. The sweet hand has not been overplayed and an aromatic finish brings the overall performance to a satisfactory conclusion. (MS)

I’m always in a quandary with Jost’s trocken wines, as they tend to exhibit quite simplistic peardrop aromas in their youth. I have found some of his older wines quite complex, but I do not have the courage to put a drinking window of 2017-2022 on the Walkenberg. (MS)

Stone fruit plays an important part in terms of both aroma and taste, and though the residual sugar pushes the upper limit of trocken, a green-peel edge and some lively acidity take care of a fresh and harmonious performance. (MS)

An attractive aroma of apricot and peach could indicate barrel fermentation, and though a little light in substance, the juicy fruit pairs up well with a lively acidity to give the palate a pleasant treat. Fair length, and seems to carry just a little more promise than its siblings from the same estate. (MS)

A light touch of caramel is well balanced by refreshing acidity. Very pleasant quaffer, for early drinking. (MS)

A little citrus fruit on the nose. Straightforward sweet-and-sour performance on the palate, fresh and easy drinking. (MS)

Deep hue suggests some botrytis influence. The nose exhibits attractive peach aromas, but on the palate pithy grapefruit dominates the proceedings. A little over phenolic perhaps. (MS)

Gentle fragrance of green fruit with just a smidgeon of clove sets the scene for a flavour of succulent apple spiked with a delicate spicy note. Not very long, but interestingly different. (MS)

Gently flowery and peachy aromas flatter the olfactory perception, and fresh pineapple cubes might tempt most but the hardened trocken fans. I admit that a lemony acidity does lend a bit of an edge, but this must be cruising on the upper limit of residual sugar. A nice wine, but not dry. (MS)

Stone fruit and gentle dusty note create some intrigue on the nose, and the fruit takes on quite a sweet expression on the palate. Maybe just a tad more acidity would not have come amiss, though an element of wet-stone minerality does add a little extra. (MS)

The herbaceous aromas of spontaneous fermentation may still keep a grip on the nose, but a compact structure and the promise of ripe citrus fruit indicate a bright future. A sprinkling of spice on the long finish adds intrigue. (MS)

Sweet and juicy exotic fruit with more than a hint of kiwi is well buffered by refreshing acidity. Has just a little more substance than some and good length. May drink quite well now, but a little patience will probably be rewarded (MS)

The nose does not appear to have recovered entirely from the effects of fermentation, but the palate shows a concentration that promises potential. Herbaceous and even minerally notes dominate proceedings at this early stage, but at the core of the matter there is enough substance of sweet ripe fruit to be optimistic about further development. (MS)

Ripe green fruit and a gentle scent of herbs raise great expectations, but on the palate I find this just a tad sweet. A light minerally touch adds some intrigue. (MS)

The promise of a fresh peach fragrance is fulfilled by mouthfilling juicy fruit flavour. There is plenty of acidity to tickle the taste buds’ salivary glands. A very open and forward Erstes Gewächs that may not dazzle with complexity but delivers plenty of substance and has good length too. (MS)

A gentle herbal aroma precedes gentle flavours of melon and peach, and although the wine is quite soft in character, a delicate bitter note provides some edge. Not quite as sweet as some other Rheingau renditions. (MS)

Still a little yeasty on the nose, but there is peach to make the olfactory experience a pleasurable one. A light minerally sting and the delicate bitterness of fruit peel adds an edge that raises the Hölle above the merely pleasant. (MS)

Expectations of a monster, through name association, would be entirely disappointed, as this is a Grosses Gewächs walking on the light side. The nose is dainty and the flavour delicate. A fresh sweet-and-sour style of trocken, it does have the minerality of wet pebbles going for it. (MS)

The house of Heger is a top address in Baden, but Pinot rather than Riesling produces their flagship wines. The climate of the Kaiserstuhl is the warmest of all German regions, making acidity harder to come by. The Winklerberg is full bodied, exhibits a rich texture and is certainly not lacking in substance. Ripe stone fruit with a sprinkling of spices here and a touch of herbs there and still enough freshness make this Baden’s best (Riesling Grosses Gewächs). (MS)

Reicholzheim is a northeastern outpost of Baden and although administratively a part of that state, vinologically (is there such a word?) speaking its vineyards share the climate of its direct Franconian neighbours. This matters in terms of style, and the Satzenberg certainly exhibits the traditional earthy Franken character you will not find in the heart of the Baden region. Add to that some fresh yellow fruit, refreshing acidity and the gently bitter edge of fruit peel, and you have a very attractive (Franconian-style) Riesling. (MS)

Sour yeasty notes do not tempt, particularly when they are accompanied by a scent of glue. This could be due to a touch of botrytis which sometimes adds to the complexity of a wine. Not in this case, and I cannot imagine that it was the maker’s intention to pass off a combination of glue and residual sugar as a Grosses Gewächs. A wine in turmoil, probably a faulty sample. (MS)

German Qualitätsweine need to get past a tasting panel to be awarded their AP (approval) number, and a major requirement is typicality. I have no idea how this wine got past the jurors, as to me the overriding sensory impression of new French oak may say many things, but Riesling is not one of them. In its favour one has to admit that the low acidity of 2011 would have been an advantage, and because of its substance,  the Herrenberg absorbs the wood well. In a little get-together after the event the jury (of journalists) was not just out on this one, but not far from handbags at five. Score 18 if you like to be slapped with a plank of wood! (MS)

The Stigler estate is well known for the longevity of its wines, and the almost neutral nose of the Herrgottswinkel certainly seems to confirm that this is a real infant. The palate appears a little green at the moment, but gentle notes of grapefruit and peach point in the right direction. There is a slightly bitter tang of pith, but this may well eventually provide the balance needed for the longer term. Another plus is that the trap of too much residual sugar has been avoided. (MS)

The nose is still shy but a delicate scent of meadow herbs raises some interest. Fresh fruit and invigorating acidity produce one of the racier Franken Grosse Gewächse, and a gentle bitter peel edge serves well to balance the sweetness of the residual sugar. (MS)

There is an apricot/mandarin-like aroma that I tend to associate with barrel fermentation. A gentle note of herbs adds a little intrigue to a wine that oozes sweet fruit and borders onto the honeyed. I could like this wine, but it’s not trocken as I know it. Maybe a little more acidity would have done the trick? (MS)

Nose still very restrained, but the palate exhibits a harmonious partnership of almost exotic fruit flavours and refreshing acidity. A delicate notion of earth and wet stone adds a little spice. (MS)

Flowery and gently aromatic on the nose. A lighter style with an animating sweet and sour combination of citrus fruit and lemony acidity. Mouthwateringly fresh, but probably not a contender. (MS)

Nose still restrained but with the customary Centgrafenberg herbal character and gentle fumy fragrance. Although melon and pear do make an appearance, the accent is on minerally grip and firm structure. I have always appreciated the Centgrafenberg for its uncompromisingly austere style, but 2011 is a little smoother around the edges with a well-integrated acidity and an almost creamy texture. (MS)

Meadow herbs remain the trademark fragrance of the Kallmuth, but 2011 has brought forward a fruitier tangent with some marked citrus notes on the palate. Quite soft and gentle, though not too sweet and with enough acidity to avoid blandness. Because of its unique herbal connotations I have a soft spot for the Kallmuth, but as a German disciplinarian I never let it show in my marks. (MS)

Very faint herbal aroma with merest hint of fennel. Gentle flavour of pineapple takes quite a sweet direction but a touch of flinty minerality adds some intrigue. Fresh and attractive, but not very long. (MS)

Still in the transitional phase, but the yeasty stage of post-fermentational trauma should soon give way to greater delights of fragrance. The palate runs the whole gamut of citrus fruit, and a gently bitter touch of quinine works well with a delicate earthy note to raise hopes of future complexity. (MS)

Kicks off with an abundance of sweet fruit but has plenty of acidity to avoid any danger of slipping into the sweet and sour twilight zone. Sauer’s Lump never lacks substance and does not care about providing a short thrill. The sweet grapefruit flavour may already be very seductive, but there is also a certain compactness that suggests longer distance potential. (MS)

Not too much going on on the nose, but the flavour of juicy sweet pineapple cubes almost overwhelms the palate. Almost a little too opulent, with acidity restricted to a cameo appearance, the day is saved by a hint of flint and a touch of herbs on the finish. (MS)

Quite restrained on the nose, with an unusual but not unattractive buttery notion. A citrusy sweetness is ably partnered by lively acidity. A touch of earthy minerality and a smidgeon of herbs lift this Pfülben way beyond a simple sweet and sour performance. A tactile bite on the finish indicates that the best is still to come. (MS)

Expectations raised by an attractive green fruit fragrance are not let down by the flavour of juicy melon and pear. A swift kick of lively acidity adds a very refreshing notion, and a clean earthy minerality takes this version of the Stein into the authentic Franken bracket. The finish is still a bit rugged, but a little naughty can be very nice (so I’ve been told). (MS)

Not my favourite of the Hofkeller Grosse Gewächse this year, as despite the attractive citrus fruit and a gentle combination of dusty minerality and herbs I cannot make friends with the sweeter interpretation of trocken. To be fair, there is plenty of acidity livening up the performance, and Grosse Gewächse enthusiasts who do not mind a fair dash of residual sugar would probably be more generous in their score. (MS)

Associations of green fruit and a delicate herbal fragrance on the nose. I have been critical of its relatively high sweetness in previous vintages but must admit that with its generous substance of ripe fruit and lively kick of acidity the Pfülben has perfect balance. An intriguing notion of herbs lends interest to the finish. (MS)

2011 has given the Julius-Echter-Berg a little more body and texture and slightly softened the grip of its customary earthy minerality. However, the acidity has been pitched just right to control any excess of exotic fruit flavours. Personally I may have preferred the 2008 or 2009, but can gracefully accept that 2011 will have greater appeal for lovers of the more generous style. Suum cuique! (MS)

Apricot and vineyard peach aromas produce an almost perfumed aroma, and the generosity of fruit continues on the palate with a truly ripe fruit flavour. The texture is rich, marginally at the expense of acidity, and for the lover of the more austere Franken style this baby is a little too sweet. On the other hand, those who like their trocken a little more rounded and mellow should be quite happy. (MS)

The nose may not be giving away much for now, but the palate is treated to a generous expression of grapefruit and orange flavours. The sweet juice of the fruit is ably complemented by some refined bitter pith notes and a dash of zesty peel. What you see is probably what you get, but what is wrong with instant pleasure? (MS)

Still quite closed on the nose. The taste buds are treated to some juicy citrus fruit, and in keeping with the vintage, residual sugar does make a sweet appearance. Quite full bodied and with a rich texture, the Ratsherr uses the support of a refreshing dash of acidity and a sprinkling of orange peel to keep the flab at bay. The expression of minerality is not quite as pronounced as in previous years, but a gentle herbal note adds interest to the finish. (MS)

Mildly exotic fruit aromas on the nose, lemon drops on the palate. Pleasant enough, but not really what I would call trocken, quite short too. Not just aimed at Lanius-Knab, I would say the Mittelrhein needs to up the Grosse Gewächse ante. (MS)

Déjà vu! Peardrops and boiled sweets on the nose, pineapple chunks on the palate. A pleasant sweet and sour performance does not make a grand cru. (MS)

Still very yeasty on the nose, but with a flattering scent of citrus fruit. A refreshing sweet grapefruit flavour is supported by lively acidity, but more substance and length would help to justify the grand cru status. (MS)

Aromas of pear and melon on a still slightly unsettled nose, but melon and kiwi flavour comes all inclusive of fruit, juice, peel and and a delicate creamy-sour notion. A gentle breeze carries across the scent of meadow herbs, but as I’m not being paid for literary effort, let’s just call it one of the more complex renditions of Württemberg Grosse Gewächse. (MS)

Aldinger is something like the Grand Master of Württemberg winemakers, and with the Lämmler he sends in a second contender that exhibits more of an exotic character with mandarin at the top of the citrus fruit pile. It has to be said that the fruit does not only impress with sweetness but also a well-preserved juicy acidity. Uncomplicated, but very approachable and pleasant. (MS)

Another follower of the wild-yeast school of thinking, Dautel does not mind the Grübenstein showing an uncompromisingly herbaceous character in its infant stage. Substance and length do indicate that there will be more to this wine’s life than just green edges, and I find the balance between acidity and restrained sweetness very successful. A tiny glimpse of yellow fruit holds the promise of joys to look forward to. (MS)

Do I detect a hint of oak? There is also a slight sorrel-like aroma I tend to associate with the work of spontaneous yeast. On the palate things turn a little more pleasant, fruit and acidity are well balanced, but it all ends a bit abruptly. (MS)

The Altenberg shows that Ellwanger believes in the work of natural yeasts, but the herbaceous tangent is well buffered by a juicy expression of fruit. At the same time he has managed to control the impact of the residual sugar to a degree where the balance between sweetness, acidity, fruit and a gentle resiny element appears just right. (MS)

Unripe and green vegetation aromas, some burned rubber. Let’s hope that it was just a duff bottle. (MS)

A delicate green fruit aroma provides a gentle introduction to a generous sweet opening on the palate with ripe melon and pear flavours. Light green peel aromas and the merest hint of flinty minerality keep things in balance to produce a Süssmund that uses charm rather than power to impress. (MS)

Very gentle fresh green aroma reminiscent of melon and meadow herbs. The green notes are almost too prominent on the palate and do clash a little with the residual sugar. (MS)

The Pulvermächer sports some exotic fruit, but maybe has turned out just a little sweet for my liking. Reminds me of herbal sweets in the best possible taste and cannot be faulted on generosity in terms of texture and length. With acidity well restrained this is one of the broader Grosse Gewächse renditions. (MS)

The generosity of the 2011 vintage has produced some uncharacteristic notes of caramel and honey. The fruit has quite a tropical leaning and the level of sugar seems to approach the upper limit. A well-pitched acidity and an undoubtable substance save the day. (MS)

Citrus fruit and pear drops delight the olfactory senses, and the palate does not disappoint with its expression of mandarin and mirabelle flavours. If anything, the Herzogenberg is lacking edge a little, a pleasant rather than complex wine. Drinks very well already. (MS)