All those candidates who anxiously practised and studied for the gruelling MW exams usually held in June found their days of reckoning postponed this year, due to the pandemic. Extra time to prepare, or torture prolonged? Finally, from 31 August to 3 September, in Adelaide, Helsinki, London, Malaga, Napa, Ontario and Singapore, 106 candidates tackled the four-day marathon of eight MW exam papers. First-year MW candidate and our man in Burgundy, Matthew Hayes, shares his thoughts.
The Institute of Masters of Wine (IMW) explain The practical and theory exams form the second stage of the MW study programme. Over four days students had three 12-wine blind practical papers and five theory papers on the subjects of viticulture; vinification and pre-bottling procedures; handling of wines; the business of wine; and contemporary issues. Those who successfully pass the stage-two theory and practical exams will progress to stage three, the research paper, the final stage of the MW study programme. The first step is the stage-one assessment [S1A], a one-day exam comprising a 12-wine blind tasting exam in the morning and a theory exam in the afternoon. One hundred and twenty-eight students sat the stage one assessment, which this year was held online on 4 August. Students can only progress to stage two of the MW study programme by successfully passing this assessment.
Matthew Hayes writes Purgatory is not a comfortable place. On 5 October I will receive the results of the S1A qualifying exams I sat on 4 August last, much delayed from its normal date in June. It has already been a long six weeks during which the glow of confidence I felt after finishing them has gradually and incessantly ebbed away into a messy, ankle-deep morass of fear and anxiety.
As I read through the year 2 questions and papers, the enormity of the task ahead is not lost on me, and the contrast with the S1A sharp. Tasting 12 mixed wines blind in one exam is little in comparison with tasting 36 over three: one flight of white, one of red and a third of just about anything. Answering two theory questions in two hours, relatively simple as opposed to thirteen or more in fifteen. The S1A appears in comparison an apéritif léger.
Over the last year or so, reviewing past practical papers, it has been nice to think I could have had a fairly decent stab at many. Indeed, in my S1A paper I felt my Rivesaltes Tuilé was a fairly decent effort at what turned out to be a 5-year-old Marsala (of which I have now tasted a life total of one); an inspired choice, but wrong. Hopefully, the logic will be justified.
And as I look through this list, the gaping holes in my knowledge – and perhaps more importantly my (lack of) immediate openness to every possibility of what a wine might be – are evident. Paper 1, question 4 seems particularly tricky kicking off with a Moscato. Who would automatically, or logically, conclude with Muscat from Sonoma? Even if you had reasonably spotted a ripe Californian Chardonnay following it? After all, Muscat and sun-kissed Chardonnays could equally hail from the Languedoc, for example.
Sparkling wines are a particular fear for me – and I spot in this line-up my nemesis from the Diploma exam: Pol Roger 2012 (I had it down as an especially ropey sekt of very poor quality!). When it comes down to it, all decent sparkling wines come with marked rapier acidity and, as Jancis has written here, the first of these three sparklers, Brut Imperial, is now being made in a drier, more aged style, muddying the water considerably.
And then the bouquet final – three sweet fortified wines. The Matusalem aside, presumably for full marks you need to point out that the H & H Full Rich Madeira is not made primarily from noble Malmsey/Malvasia but principally from Negra Mol, and also to point out its relative sprint through estufagem rather than the traditional and leisurely conteiro system. I am hoping you would not necessarily be expected to note the Bual as a vintage wine, a particularly tough call, but it is there on paper.
Looking at the list it is easy to theorise about what I might argue, but it is constantly hammered home to students that all evidence must be found in the glass – practical as opposed to theoretical. And lest it be forgotten, these tastings are no stroll in the park; they are timed: 12 wines in two hours fifteen minutes; tasting, analysis, answers included.
As for the theory exam, my own single two-hour paper offered a choice of two out of three questions: one on the importance of soil in quality-wine production, the second on choice of bottle closure. I tried to be efficient but my answers were low on panache.
As I read through these questions, it is clear that nothing is straightforward, everything is deliberately and precisely worded: at once to entrap, or, conversely, to offer breadth. For example:
‘When, how and why should sulphur dioxide be used in winemaking? Are winemakers playing it too safe with sulphur dioxide additions?’
The first part of the question appears straightforward, but what about the second? Is that too safe in adding too much SO2, or could they be adding more? How much? Why? Why not? Who does and who doesn’t? Etc, ad nauseam…
All of these essays need to be answered within an hour and peppered with real-time, pertinent examples taken from the wine industry, locally and globally.
I only wish the very best of luck and success to every candidate who sat these exams, which seem, perhaps, especially tough. Seeing them all in one single document is horribly daunting. And should I have passed into year two, all this is just nine and half months away.
It’s time I stopped decompressing and immersed myself once again. As they say, there but by the grace of God go I…
The MW exam questions are reproduced below, followed by the S1A questions.
Practical papers
Paper 1
Question 1
Wines 1–4 all come from the same country.
For each wine:
(a) Identify the origin and variety/ies used. (4 x 10 marks)
(b) Comment on quality and maturity. (4 x 10 marks)
(c) Comment on the method of production. (4 x 5 marks)
Question 2
Wines 5–7 are from the same single grape variety.
With reference to all three wines:
(a) Compare and contrast quality and maturity. (36 marks)
(b) Identify the variety. (15 marks)
For each wine:
(c) Identify the origin as closely as possible. (3 x 8 marks)
Question 3
Wines 8 and 9 are from the same producer, the same grape variety and the same region of origin.
With reference to both wines:
(a) Identify the grape variety and the region as closely as possible. (30 marks)
(b) Compare and contrast the two wines, discussing quality, maturity, winemaking and market position. (20 marks)
Question 4
Wines 10–12 are from the same country.
With reference to all three wines:
(a) Identify the country. (15 marks)
For each wine:
(b) Identify the origin and variety/ies as closely as possible. (3 x 10 marks)
(c) Discuss the key winemaking techniques used. (3 x 5 marks)
(d) Comment on the market position. (3 x 5 marks)
1. Vin Jaune, Domaine Daniel Dugois, 2013. Arbois, France. (14.5%)
2. Corton Charlemagne, Domaine Antonin Guyon, 2017. Burgundy, France. (13.5%)
3. Inopia Blanc, Rotem & Mounir Saouma, 2018. Côtes du Rhône-Villages, France. (14%)
4. Pinot Gris, Cave de Hunawihr, 2018. Alsace, France. (13%)
5. Wally Chenin Blanc, Les Caves de Loire, 2019. Anjou, Loire Valley, France. (12.5%)
6. Clos du Papillon, Domaine des Baumards, 2007. Savennières, Loire Valley, France. (14.5%)
7. Botanica Chenin Blanc, Mary Delany Collection, 2018. Citrusdal Mountains, South Africa. (13%)
8. Riesling Burgstall Federspiel, FX Pichler, 2018. Wachau, Austria. (12.5%)
9. Riesling Ried Kellerberg Smaragd, FX Pichler, 2018. Wachau, Austria. (13.5%)
10. Moscato, Gallo Family Vineyard, 2019. California, USA. (9%)
11. Chardonnay, Hyde Vineyard, Patz & Hall, 2016. Carneros, Napa, California, USA. (14,5%)
12. Pinot Gris, Ponzi, 2019. Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA. (13.5%)
Paper 2
Question 1
Wines 1–3 are all from the same region and producer. Each wine is from a different vintage.
For all three wines:
(a) Identify the region as closely as possible, referencing each wine. (15 marks)
For each wine:
(b) Identify the vintage. Discuss quality in the context of the region and the vintage. (3 x 20 marks)
Question 2
Wines 4–6 are each made from a different single grape variety. Each wine is from a different continent.
For each wine:
(a) Identify the grape variety. (3 x 5 marks)
(b) Identify the country and region as closely as possible. (3 x 10 marks)
(c) Comment on the style and commercial appeal. (3 x 10 marks)
Question 3
Wines 7–8 are made from different single grape varieties. Each wine is from a different country in the Americas.
For both wines:
(a) Compare and contrast the styles and consumer appeal. (30 marks)
For each wine:
(b) Identify the variety and origin as closely as possible. (2 x 10 marks)
Question 4
Wines 9–10 and wines 11–12 are two pairs. Each pair is from a different region of origin.
For each pair:
(a) Identify the region as closely as possible, referencing each wine. (2 x 10 marks)
(b) Compare and contrast style, quality, and method of production. (2 x 20 marks)
For each wine:
(c) Comment on the commercial position. (4 x 5 marks)
(d) Suggest an ideal drinking window. (4 x 5 marks)
1. Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, 2013. Saint Julien, Bordeaux, France. (13%)
2. Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, 2015. Saint Julien, Bordeaux, France. (13.5%)
3. Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, 2005. Saint Julien, Bordeaux, France. (13%)
4. Pinot Noir, Flowers Winery, 2018. Sonoma Coast, USA (14.1%)
5. Barbaresco, Produttori del Barbaresco, 2017. Piedmont, Italy (14.5%)
6. Grenache The Custodian, D’Arenberg, 2016. McLaren Vale, Australia (14.5%)
7. Petite Sirah, Bogle Vineyards, 2018. California, USA (14.5%)
8. Terrunyo Carmenere Block 27, Concha y Toro, 2018. Cachapoal, Chile (14.5%)
9. Châteauneuf du Pape, Clos des Papes, Paul Avril, 2015. Rhône, France. (15%)
10. Côtes du Rhône, Guigal, 2017. Rhône, France. (14.5%)
11. La Montesa Crianza, Palacios Remondo, 2017. Rioja, Spain. (14.5%)
12. Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva, Marques de Murrieta, 2010. Rioja, Spain (14%)
Paper 3
Question 1
Wines 1–3 are all sparkling wines.
For each wine:
(a) Identify the origin and grape variety/ies used. (3 x 10 marks)
(b) Comment on the method of production. (3 x 5 marks)
(c) Comment on the quality and commercial position. (3 x 10 marks)
Question 2
Wines 4–8 are all made using different methods of production.
For each wine:
(a) Comment on the method of production with reference to residual sugar and alcohol levels. (5 x 10 marks)
(b) Identify the origin and grape variety/ies used. (5 x 10 marks)
(c) Comment on the style and quality within the context of the origin (5 x 5 marks)
Question 3
Wines 9–10 and 11–12 are two pairs. Each pair is from a different region of origin.
For each pair:
(a) Identify the origin as closely as possible (2 x 10 marks)
(b) Compare and contrast the style, quality and commercial position of the two wines. (2 x 20 marks)
For each wine:
(c) Comment on the method of production. (4 x 10 marks)
1. Brut Imperial, Moët & Chandon, NV. Champagne, France (12%)
2. Pol Roger, 2012. Champagne, France (12.5% )
3. Brut Quartet, Roederer Estate, NV. Anderson Valley, USA (12%)
4. Amarone della Valpolicella, Torre del Falasco, 2015. Italy (16%)
5. Brachetto d’Aqui, Contero, 2020. Piedmont, Italy (5.5%)
6. Vintage Port, Graham’s, 2000. Douro, Portugal (20%)
7. Maury, Domaine Pouderoux, Grande Reserve, NV. Roussillon, France (15.5%)
8. Rutherglen Muscat Classic 12 Years, Stanton & Killeen, NV. Victoria, Australia (18.5%)
9. Oloroso Pata de Gallina Almacenista, Lustau, NV. Jerez, Spain (20%)
10. Matusalem Oloroso Dulce 30 Years, Gonzales Byass, NV. Jerez, Spain (20.5%)
11. Full Rich, Henriques&Henriques, 3y.o. Madeira, Portugal (19%)
12. Single Harvest Boal, Henriques & Henriques, 2000, Madeira, Portugal (20%)
Theory papers
Paper 1 (Viticulture)
Three questions to be answered, one from Section A and two from Section B.
Section A
1. Evaluate the principal factors to consider when establishing a vineyard in a marginal climate.
2. Discuss the major factors that impact the timing of harvest in a vineyard.
Section B
3. What is the importance of soil pH in viticulture? How can vine growers influence soil pH to obtain quality grapes for winemaking?
4. Discuss the current role and potential future use of hybrids in viticulture.
5. To what extent can wineries control the quality of the grapes they purchase?
6. Is there an ideal terroir for the production of sparkling wines?
Paper 2 (Vinification and Pre-bottling Procedures)
Three questions to be answered, one from Section A and two from Section B.
Section A
1. What options are available to control final sugar levels in wine?
2. Compare and contrast winemaking techniques for an early-drinking and an age-worthy Pinot Noir still red wine in a premium region.
Section B
3. Write concise notes on each of the following:
(a) Smoke taint in grapes and wine
(b) Volatile acidity
(c) Metatartaric acid
(d) Spinning cone technology
4. When, how and why should sulphur dioxide be used in winemaking? Are winemakers playing it too safe with sulphur dioxide additions?
5. To what extent are winemaking interventions desirable in a small-scale winery producing high-quality, dry red wine?
6. What handling procedures could a winemaker implement to make mid-priced still wine from each of the following:
(a) English Chardonnay: potential alcohol 8%; pH 2.8; total acidity 14.5; and
(b) Barossa Valley Grenache Noir: potential alcohol 16.5%; pH 4.2; total acidity 3.9.
Paper 3 (Handling of Wine)
Answer two of the following four questions.
1. Compare and contrast the options available as preservatives for addition to still wine.
2. Outline the key considerations in deciding which pre-bottling treatments to use for each of the following:
(a) A vegan wine;
(b) An orange wine;
(c) An organic wine; and
(d) A mass-market, inexpensive wine.
3. You are responsible for quality assurance (QA) and quality control (QC) for an importer of bulk wine. Explain the QA and QC procedures that you will need:
(a) between the completion of winemaking and the start of the bulk transport process; and
(b) following receipt of the bulk wine at its destination.
4. A winery has received a customer complaint for a piece of glass found in a bottle. Describe the QA and QC procedures best employed by the winery to investigate the issue.
Paper 4 (The Business of Wine)
Three questions to be answered, one from Section A and two from Section B.
Section A
1. How has the market transparency facilitated by the internet and social media influenced the supply, demand and pricing of wine? Who benefits?
2. With reference to Bordeaux and other regions, discuss the commercial viability of the en primeur model. Outline the pros and cons for all parties, from producer through to consumer.
Section B
3. As export director of a 100,000-case winery in the New World, you have been asked to increase exports from 10% to 25% of total production volume. What are the factors that would be most relevant to your strategy?
4. Outline key changes in consumer taste preferences over the past decade. Which wine-producing regions have evolved their offer successfully to match these changes?
5. Identify and assess the financial considerations when planning an investment in planting a vineyard and building a winery.
6. How important is it for wine producers to develop new products?
Paper 5 (Contemporary Issues)
Two questions to be answered, one from Section A and one from Section B.
Section A
1. Who do you consider to be the real pioneers in today’s wine industry, and why?
2. Wine is celebrated for its diversity of styles. Is this diversity under threat?
Section B
3. To what extent is France’s wine classification system a model for the rest of the world?
4. Can one wine ever be objectively better than another?
5. How relevant is tradition to 21st century wine consumers?
S1A
Practical paper
Question 1
Wines 1 and 2 come from different countries.
For each wine:
(a) Identify the origin as closely as possible. (2 x 8 marks)
(b) Comment on winemaking. (2 x 8 marks)
(c) Discuss style and commercial potential. (2 x 9 marks)
Please write dry note answers for this question using the following information:
Wine 1
- Cava Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2015
- 55% Xarel-lo, 35% Macabeo, 10% Parellada
- 12% ABV, RS <1 g/L
- Approximate retail: GBP20–25
- Hand-harvested. Cuvée made 100% from free run juice. Second fermentation in bottle, with 36 months on lees prior to disgorgement. No dosage, for Brut Nature style.
Wine 2
- Prosecco Treviso DOC Brut NV
- 100% Glera
- 11% ABV, RS 9-12 g/L, TA 5.5-6.5 g/L
- Approximate retail: GBP11
- Must is inoculated with cultured yeast for fermentation in stainless steel that results in a base wine of around 9-10% ABV. Wine is transferred into pressurized tanks where it undergoes the Charmat method of secondary fermentation.
Question 2
Wines 3–5 come from Austria and are made from different single grape varieties.
For each wine:
(a) Identify the grape variety and the origin as closely as possible. (3 x 13 marks)
(b) Comment on quality, with reference to capacity to age. (3 x 12 marks)
Question 3
Wines 6–9 are made from the same single grape variety but come from different countries.
With reference to all four wines:
(a) Identify the grape variety. (20 marks)
For each wine:
(b) Identify the origin as closely as possible (4 x 8 marks)
(c) Comment on quality within the context of origin. (4 x 7 marks)
(d) Comment on capacity to age. (4 x 5 marks)
Question 4
Wines 10–12 come from three different countries.
For each wine:
(a) Identify the origin as closely as possible. (3 x 8 marks)
(b) Comment on the method of production. (3 x 8 marks)
(c) Comment on the commercial appeal. (3 x 5 marks)
(d) State the level of residual sugar level in g/l (3 x 2 marks)
(e) State the level of alcohol in % abv. (3 x 2 marks)
Wines 3–12
3. Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal Grüner Veltliner, 2019. Kamptal, Austria. (12.8%)
4. Domäne Wachau, Achleiten Riesling Smaragd, 2018. Wachau, Austria. (14%)
5. Tement, Kalk & Kreide Sauvignon Blanc, 2019. Sudsteiermark, Austria (12.5%)
6. Viña Leyda, Pinot Noir Lot 21, 2015. Leyda Valley, Chile (13.5%)
7. Albert Bichot, Côte de Nuits-Villages, 2018. Burgundy, France (14.1%)
8. J Vineyards, Pinot Noir Russian River Valley, 2018. Sonoma, USA (14.3%)
9. Tolpuddle Vineyard, Pinot Noir, 2018. Tasmania, Australia (13.5%)
10. González Byass, Matusalem Muy Viejo Cream Sherry VORS, NV. Jerez, Spain (20.5%)
11. Cuaratolo Arini, Marsala Superiore Dolce 5 years, NV. Sicily, Italy (18%)
12. Henriques & Henriques, 10 Year Old Malvasia, NV. Madeira, Portugal (20%)
Theory paper
TWO questions to be answered, ONE from Section A and ONE from Section B
Section A
Question 1 (Paper 1): How does soil influence wine quality?
Section B
Question 2 (Paper 4): As the brand manager of a 500,000 case wine brand, what five key statistics would you most closely monitor to gauge the performance of your brand, and why?
OR
Question 3 (Paper 3): What technical factors influence the choice of a closure for wine bottles?