One of the observations made in Sassacaia – the background understatements is that the Bolgheri DOC is getting too big. The implication was that quality suffers as a result, but there is another symptom: a proliferation of wine styles that vary enormously. This needn't necessarily be a disadvantageous attribute: on the one hand it celebrates potential and diversity of terroir with an almost New World mentality, unhindered by the Italian wine legislation that so often afflicts producers elsewhere; on the other hand it gives the DOC something of an identity crisis, a harlequin patchwork of styles that might undermine the...