Earlier this week Brian Croser of Petaluma, South Australia was made Decanter Man of the Year 2004 at a dinner at Australia House in London (a magnificent early 20th century monument cast in marble and hardwoods shipped from each Australian state). This is abridged version of his speech, particularly interesting on the legacy of Australia's oldest vineyards and an earlier generation of winemakers – and of course it's always fortifying to hear or read an Australian trying to be humble. Gordon Cairns, boss of Lion Nathan, the brewer which now owns Petaluma, was less humble. He provided the assembled wine...