It is of course a great treat to taste at 'the Domaine' in Burgundy, and to arrive at its modest address in a Vosne backstreet to find the gates open. I arrived just before 10 on a changeable November morning at the same time as Madame Roch, sister of the famously ousted Lalou, now based just down the road at Domaine Leroy. (It's funny to think how vehemently Lalou denounced the old Leroy négociant business jointly owned by the two sisters in favour of her own domaine now that we have a new generation of respected young négociants such as...