Ageing Italian fine wine – Castello di Monsanto

'Fabrizio and Laura Bianchi are glad to invite you to the vertical tasting of Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio', read the invitation. The occasion was the 50th anniversity of this single-vineyard wine, and although tasting aged wines is a privilege at any time, I must admit that this particular invitation made my heart beat faster. Only months earlier, Nicolas Belfrage MW had mentioned to me that the most impressive flight he had ever tasted was that of Castello di Monsanto's Il Poggio.

Fate had it that the tasting took place at the end of June right in the centre of...