Australian viticulturist Dr Richard Smart, deeply critical of a recent conference on climate change held in Chicago, directed me last weekend to what to him was too bland a report on it on www.decanter.com. I noticed that the magazine's website, which has an admirable flow of news of rather varied quality, now has a pair of wines of the week sprouting up from its annoying overlay of ads at the bottom of the screen (there must be a technical adspeak term for them). Forgive me if they have been there for months without my noticing them but my attention was caught by the following...