In her final report from the Southwold tasting, Julia reviews the wines of the left bank, where Cabernet Sauvignon is king. For background to the tasting, see Bordeaux 2020 revisited; see also Bordeaux 2020 four years on – whites and right-bank reds, and our guide to the 2020 vintage in Bordeaux.
The 116 wines are grouped by appellation as follows:
Within each group the wines are ordered alphabetically but you can reorder them by score if you wish.
Pessac-Léognan
Ch Bouscaut 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Includes some old-vine Malbec, apparently.
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Ripe, sweet and spicy. Firm, dark yet elegant. Embryonically balanced, persistent. (JH)
Ch Carbonnieux 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Intense, fresh, peppery black fruit with a hint of leafiness and cedar. Juicy, fine-grained, layered tannins. A bit dry on the finish. (JH)
14.5%Ch Les Carmes Haut-Brion 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Lifted, ripe and oaky dark fruit. Juicy and refined on the palate, with real elegance and freshness. Not a blockbuster but harmonious and compelling in its refinement. (JH)
Dom de Chevalier, L’Esprit de Chevalier 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Sweet and ripe but not raisined. Firm, chewy, in balance to give the tannins time to settle. Very firm at the moment but juicy at the core. (JH)
14%Dom de Chevalier 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Smells ripe, sweet and seductive, lifted by a leafy cassis note. Firm, rich, finely dry texture, all juicy and fresh at the core. Bright and lively and yet big. All to play for. (JH)
14%Ch Couhins-Lurton 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Charry and toasty oak over rich black fruit. Really intense and juicy fruited, pure dark fruit but perhaps a little bit oaky, giving a sweetness overall. (JH)
14.5%Ch de Fieuzal 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Deep crimson with purplish rim. Darkly fragrant and gently leafy. Deep, firm and well-built with lovely fruit. (JH)
14%Ch La Garde 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Leafy black fruit. Fresh, the tannins a little bit firm on the palate, as you might expect now. The freshness and the tannins seem to give a slightly bitter aftertaste. (JH)
14%Ch Haut-Bailly 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Dark core. A touch oaky/charry and dark but with some red fruits hiding underneath. Very firm but finely built tannins. Firm, juicy and refined with lots of lovely dark fruit though the tannins are pretty dominant now, dark and chewy and needing time. (JH)
14%Ch Haut-Bergey 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Very deep greyish crimson. Sweet cassis and blackberry on the nose but less ripe on the palate. Open and inviting aroma but leads to a slightly odd flavour on the palate, rather dry and flat on the finish. (JH)
13.5%Ch Haut-Brion, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Lots of pure dark fruit and just slightly charry/spiced by the oak. Plush, fresh and polished, really smooth even though there is power underlying the fruit. (JH)
14.5%Ch Haut-Brion 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Perfumed with sweet black fruits. Really fragrant. Sweet, almost sweet-sour on the palate. Thick, firm, chewy tannins but lots of freshness at the end. Deep, rich, just balanced. A big beast. (JH)
15%Ch Latour-Martillac 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Very dark crimson. Pure, dark ripe black fruit with a nice stony quality. Dry, firm, but refined in both texture and flavour. (JH)
14%Ch La Louvière 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Deep to mid crimson. Dark cassis fruit is intense and pure on the palate. Nicely framed by the tannins, with a long, elegant finish. (JH)
14%Ch Malartic Lagravière 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Leafy and open-hearted with fresh black fruit. Firm, chewy, fresh but slightly sinewy on the finish though the harmony is there. Just very slightly dry on the finish even though there is a lot of fruit at the core. (JH)
14%Ch La Mission Haut-Brion, La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Scented and inviting. Black and dark-red fruits. A touch leafy on the palate – so elegant, with paper-fine tannins and a long, fresh finish. (JH)
14.5%Ch La Mission Haut-Brion 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Inky crimson. Pure black fruit with a top note of cedary pencil. Pure, dark and elegant. On the palate, this is really refined, flowing across the palate even with so much tannin density. Elegant and embryonic with a lovely dark minerally character. (JH)
14.5%Ch Olivier 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Rich and open with red and black fruits. Pretty tough tannins grip your mouth and smother the fruit. Enough freshness but a bit severe at the moment. (JH)
14.5%Ch Pape Clément 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Smells ripe, dark and sweet-fruited. Severely structured on the palate with not quite enough flesh in the middle. A big wine and really chewy. Very tannic and a bit tough. (JH)
14%Ch Smith Haut Lafitte 2020 Pessac-Léognan
Tasted blind. Very dark crimson. Intense, pure black fruit, like small wild berries, and just slightly charry-dark at that moment. Dense, chewy and balanced for the long term. Deep, harmonious and embryonic. (JH)
14.5%Margaux
Ch Brane-Cantenac 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Deepest crimson. Intensely aromatic with sweet, ripe fresh black fruits. Such pure cassis. Firmly encased in its compact and polished tannins. Concentrated and plush but somehow still elegant. Spicy, fresh finish. (JH)
13.5%Ch Cantenac Brown 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Pure, lightly spicy black fruit. Extremely fine tannins, particularly in a vintage like this. Harmonious, fresh, juicy finish. Beautiful now and for the future. Classic Margaux. (JH)
13.5%Ch Dauzac 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Lifted dark-red fruit. Seductive and open. Firm, deep, pure-fruited, really smooth and nicely balanced by freshness. Powerful and harmonious with great fruit. Long, too. Powerful style of Margaux? (JH)
14%Ch Giscours 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Black core with purplish rim. Dark and savoury, slightly charry, on the nose. Masses of pure black fruit. Sweeter in the mouth, a bit sweet-sour, flowingly gentle on the palate and scented. Gentle and fragrant at the same time. (JH)
13.5%Ch d'Issan 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Ripe, sweet damson and blackcurrant fruit with a nice hint of lead pencil. Juicy but firmly textured. Smooth tannins but it lacks a bit of energy on the finish. (JH)
13%Ch Kirwan 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Deepest crimson. Fragrant with very slightly leafy black fruit. Dark and ripe yet fresh. Firm, chewy, well built and harmonious. Juicy finish. Nice freshness. (JH)
14%Ch Labégorce 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Fragrant, lightly leafy. Leafy/lead pencils on the palate, slightly chalky tannins, a bit stone-dusty. Light, dry, fine-boned. Scented on the finish. (JH)
14%Ch Lascombes 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Very dark. Rich in black fruit. Really fragrant. Seductive yet serious. Dark, savoury, and yet perfumed too. Quite reticent on the palate, with beautifully smooth tannins. (JH)
13.5%Ch Malescot St-Exupéry 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Black-fruited, intense, ripe cassis. Tighter and more elegant on the palate, tannins dry and fine, elegant rather than powerful. (JH)
14%Ch Margaux, Pavillon Rouge 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Dark-fruited, open and floral plus a slight jamminess. Pretty oaky, especially on the finish. A bit dense and unyielding on the mid palate, the fruit currently dominated by the structure. Firm, dry finish. (JH)
14%Ch Margaux 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Darkest crimson. Sweetly fragrant with pure black fruits and a hint of violets. Great power in the tannins but they are deeply layered not massive. Chewy but not thick. Monumental without excess weight. Freshness from the tannins and the acidity. (JH)
13.5%Ch Marquis d'Alesme 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Very dark with black core. Dark, spicy black fruit. Deep and inviting. Firm and chewy, thickly textured but smooth, a bit flat on the finish but easy. And fresh enough overall. (JH)
14%Ch Marquis de Terme 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Black core. Dark, rich, ripe and really spicy, pretty oaky on the nose. A touch charry plus lots of fruit. Oaky, smooth and rich, chocolate flavour and texture. Could do with a little more lift on the finish but deep and generous. (JH)
13.5%Ch Monbrison 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Subdued and rather flat/dry on the palate. Lean and strangely salty on the finish, dry aftertaste. Can’t really give drink dates here. (JH)
13.5%Ch Palmer, Alter Ego de Palmer 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Black core with purplish rim. Fragrant with gorgeously pure black fruit and definite but not overdone oak. Firm, dry, elegant tannins allowing the fruit and fragrance to shine. Subtle in its power, persistent. (JH)
13.5%Ch Palmer 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Dark and ripe with a hint of damsons. Ripe black plum and gently floral, plus lead pencil. Complex aroma. Rich, deep, chewy, generous and powerful with finesse on the long finish. (JH)
14%Ch Paveil de Luze 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Aromatic with small dark wild berries. Open, dry and finely textured tannins. Nicely balanced in a lighter-bodied style. (JH)
13.5%Ch Prieuré-Lichine 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Black core with purplish rim. Deep, dark fruit with lots of peppery spice. Really scented, too, with violets. Juicy core inside the firm, dry, subtle, smooth tannins. Lovely balance and nicely dry finish. (JH)
13.5%Ch Rauzan-Ségla, Ségla 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Sweet, fresh red and black fruits and a touch of spicy oak. Very oaky on the palate, lots of chocolate and thick texture. Smooth, thick tannins. (JH)
13.5%Ch Rauzan-Ségla 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Dark crimson. Spicy dark fruit while also fragrant and open. Dry tannic finesse. Not as quite as much intensity as there is in many in this vintage but really harmonious. (JH)
13.5%Ch Siran 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Deep garnet. Fragrant and red-fruited, touch of tea leaf. Lively and fresh-smelling. Juicy, chewy-chocolatey tannins and nicely fresh on the finish. (JH)
14%Ch du Tertre 2020 Margaux
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Both sweet (oaky) and leafy on the nose. Ripe and a bit green at the same time. Very smooth, mild tannins, especially in this vintage. And succulent on the finish. Mild-mannered, balanced, juicy though the oak comes back rather strongly on the finish. (JH)
13.5%Moulis
Ch Branas Grand Poujeaux 2020 Moulis
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Smells dark, spicy and rich. Powerful and smooth tannins and just enough fruit to fill them out. Fresh, refreshing. (JH)
14.5%Ch Chasse-Spleen 2020 Moulis
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Dark-fruited and perfumed with violets. Open and fragrant but a little bit lean on the mid palate, though the fruit came back on the finish. (JH)
13.5%Ch Mauvesin Barton 2020 Moulis
Tasted blind. Deeply coloured. Aromatic and lightly leafy. Some might describe it as ‘green’, which may be positive or negative depending on your taste. It is a bit lean for me, though it has freshness and balance in this leafy style. (JH)
13%Ch Poujeaux 2020 Moulis
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Pure, dark cedary fruit. Firm, slightly thick but smooth tannins. Really smooth. Easy and approachable despite the depth of tannin, which is a bit of a block on the finish at the moment, all smooth chocolate at the end. (JH)
13.5%Haut-Médoc
Ch Beaumont 2020 Haut-Médoc
Tasted blind. Deeply coloured. Leafy black fruit. Pretty lightweight, tannins well judged not to overwhelm the fruit but could do with a little more substance. Should be approachable early. I went back to this to retaste it and upped my score by half a point as I felt I had been too hard. (JH)
13.5%Ch Belgrave 2020 Haut-Médoc
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Fragrant, a touch leafy, the tannins firm and chocolatey, not quite meshed between fruit and structure yet. Just enough freshness on the finish. (JH)
13.5%Ch de Camensac 2020 Haut-Médoc
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Fresh dark and dark-red fruit, very fine tannins, lightish and elegant, fresh finish. Perhaps just slightly leafy but it will be approachable much earlier than many 2020s. (JH)
13.5%Ch Cantemerle 2020 Haut-Médoc
Tasted blind. Very dark. Sweet and ripe, a bit like Ribena. Powerful, chewy and very primary in its fruit profile, with enough freshness, just needs time to mesh. (JH)
13.5%Ch La Lagune 2020 Haut-Médoc
Tasted blind. Darkest crimson. Lightly cedary and intense black fruit on the nose. Big, smooth tannins, with juicy fruit at the core. Powerful, oaky on the mid palate and with everything in place to age well. (JH)
14%Ch Lanessan 2020 Haut-Médoc
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Toasty suggestion of oak over the black fruit. A bit green overall and the tannins dry on the finish. Chewy. (JH)
13.5%Ch Sociando-Mallet 2020 Haut-Médoc
Tasted blind. Very dark. Smoky, spicy black fruit with a touch of cedar. Juicy, fine-grained tannins, lots of freshness and easy but not simple. Mouth-watering finish. (JH)
14%Ch La Tour Carnet 2020 Haut-Médoc
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Dark, riper and still on the savoury side, then more cedary as it opens. Dry, fine tannins but a little dilute on the mid palate. (JH)
St-Julien
Ch Beychevelle, Amiral de Beychevelle 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Deep smudgy crimson. Open, lifted dark-red fruit. Really fragrant. Delicate, fine-boned, juicy. Not for the longest of ageing but balanced in this lighter style. (JH)
13.5%Ch Beychevelle 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Deepest crimson. Sweet, ripe and oaky on the nose though not overripe. Really grippy tannins and just enough flesh to balance – pretty demanding now. (JH)
13.5%Ch Branaire-Ducru 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Ripe yet fragrant. Finely dry, pretty tannic. Tight, fresh but not very generous. Straightforward. (JH)
13.5%Ch Ducru-Beaucaillou 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Intense aroma of pure black fruit. Pure cassis. Very deep, rich and oaky but the fruit is the power at the core of the wine. Big and harmonious. Maybe not classic St-Julien but perhaps it is in 2020? (JH)
13.5%Ch Gloria 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Spicy, sweet yet fresh dark fruits. With a cedary fresh lift. That cedary flavour on the palate, too, but this is pretty severe in its tannic structure. Demanding on the palate even though it is aromatically open. (JH)
13.5%Ch Gruaud Larose, Sarget de Gruaud Larose 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Perfumed with dark-red fruits and tea leaf. Dry, lightish, and disappears rather quickly. A bit lean – shame because the aroma was lovely. (JH)
13.5%Ch Gruaud Larose 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Very dark crimson. Pencil lead and dark fruit. Firmly tannic, quite savoury. Chewy but fresh. Tight, dry and harmonious. (JH)
13.5%Ch Lagrange, Les Fiefs de Lagrange 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Intense aroma of pure dark fruits and a touch of oaky vanilla. Juicy, lots of freshness, finely dry tannins. On the lighter side on the palate but balanced. (JH)
13.5%Ch Lagrange 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Fragrant and slightly leafy aroma of black fruit. Leafy on the palate, too, just a little bit pinched in the middle but fresh. Tannins are a little dry given the amount of fruit in the middle. Slightly tart on the finish. (JH)
13.5%Ch Langoa Barton 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Fragrant, spicy dark fruit with a leafy lift. Very grippy tannins and a little bit too much tension on the palate. Tightly wound. Thickly textured and demanding. (JH)
13.5%Ch Léoville Barton, La Réserve de Léoville Barton 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Dark, pure and slightly leafy black fruit. Leafy on the palate, too, the tannins dry but finely textured. Good freshness and decent length. (JH)
13.5%Ch Léoville Barton 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Black core with purplish rim. Smells rich, ripe and sweet yet still fresh-fruited. Darkly oaky and inviting. Powerful, dense tannins and enough fruit to fill them out but this needs a lot of time. Freshness on the finish. Precise and balanced even with all this tannic power, and very long. The tannins seem to add freshness. (JH)
13.5%Ch Léoville Las Cases 2020 St-Julien
Apparently, they are planning to drop Léoville from the name.
Tasted blind. Dark crimson. Lots of sweet fruit and sweet oak on the nose. And just a light leafy note. Dense, dry and refined in its tannic power, layered not massive. Long and refined even in embryo. Dark, savoury, sober on the palate, long. Lots of freshness in this powerful wine. (JH)
Ch Léoville Poyferré, Pavillon de Léoville Poyferré 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Ripe, dark and pretty oaky on the nose. Firm, thick, chewy, not much fruit impression on the palate and it’s all hiding at the moment. (JH)
13.5%Ch Léoville Poyferré 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Black almost to the rim. Dark, savoury and oaky on the nose but with sweet, fresh damson fruit. Powerful, thick, dense. Not very obviously St-Julien in its infancy but has harmony within its powerful framework. Pretty dense and compact now. Moved this up half a point on retasting. (JH)
13.5%Ch Moulin Riche 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Dark greyish crimson. Ripe, dark and spicy fruit. Thickly textured, smooth tannins. Rounded but could do with a little more energy on the finish amid all that tannin. (JH)
13%Ch St-Pierre 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Deepest crimson. Leafy and open with cassis fruit and bud. More refined than most of the St-Julien 2020s tasted today in terms of tannic texture, elegance, length and harmony. (JH)
13.5%Ch Talbot, Connétable Talbot 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Deep greyish crimson. Very sweet aroma of red fruits. Raspberries! Light, juicy, idiosyncratic and a bit lean overall but very fresh, herbal. (JH)
13.5%Ch Talbot 2020 St-Julien
Tasted blind. Deep greyish crimson. Lifted with red and black fruits and slightly volatile. Very leafy and a bit toasty. Lighter than some, pretty oaky and a bit dry on the finish even though the tannins are finely textured. Too oaky for me. (JH)
13.5%