Our tasting notes are – phew – now just about complete. For a guide to our comprehensive coverage of this exceptional vintage, see Burgundy 2009 – a guide.
FRÉDÉRIC MAGNIEN
Frédéric Magnien, Les Charmes Premier Cru 2009 Chambolle-Musigny
Mid low-key stuff, very chewy, hard work! (JR)
Drink
2016
–
2022
£495 per case ib Jeroboams
16
Frédéric Magnien, Lavaut St-Jacques Premier Cru 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin
Dense and sweet AND RICH. Full of easy appeal though too simple and full of cloves to be really interesting! (JR)
Drink
2015
–
2022
£475 per case ib Jeroboams
16
DOMAINE MICHEL MAGNIEN
Dom Michel Magnien, Grand Cru 2009 Clos de la Roche
Sweet and rich cocktail. Not easy, slightly harsh. (JR)
Drink
2016
–
2022
£485 per case of 6 ib Jeroboams
16
DOMAINE JEAN-PAUL ET STÉPHANE MAGNIEN
Dom Jean-Paul et Stéphane Magnien 2009 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains
Blueish crimson. Attractive development on the nose. Though much tougher on the palate. The Gamay really insists on the palate. (JR)
Drink
2012
–
2014
£75 per case ib Bordeaux Index
15.5
Dom Stéphane Magnien 2009 Morey-St-Denis
Mid cherry fruit. A bit austere and lean. Though at least not sickly... (JR)
Drink
2014
–
2018
£225 per case ib Bordeaux Index
15.5
Dom Stéphane Magnien, Vieille Vigne 2009 Chambolle-Musigny
Some richness on the palate and freshness too. Well sculpted though a tough end. (JR)
Drink
2015
–
2019
£255 per case ib Bordeaux Index
16
Dom Stéphane Magnien, Les Sentiers Premier Cru 2009 Chambolle-Musigny
Rich yet mossy nose. Sweet start. Very lively. Lots of delivery of fresh fruit. (JR)
Drink
2017
–
2022
£395 per case ib Bordeaux Index
16.5
Dom Stéphane Magnien, Les Faconnières Premier Cru 2009 Morey-St-Denis
Racy and rich and full bodied yet not too sweet. This is a real charmer. (JR)
Drink
2017
–
2023
£345 per case ib Bordeaux Index
17
Dom Stéphane Magnien, Cuvée Aux Petites Noix Premier Cru 2009 Morey-St-Denis
Lively and racy and sweet. Rather astringent and austere. Even sour on the end. (JR)
Drink
2017
–
2022
£325 per case ib Bordeaux Index
16
Dom Stéphane Magnien, Grand Cru 2009 Clos St-Denis
Quite sweet and liquoureux. Reasonably gentle and concentrated. But a teensy bit tarted up. (JR)
Drink
2017
–
2025
£645 per case ib Bordeaux Index
16.5 +
Dom Stéphane Magnien, Grand Cru 2009 Charmes-Chambertin
Lots of autumn mulch on the nose. Then masses of acidity on the palate, oddly. Chewy and embryonic. (JR)
Drink
2017
–
2025
£695 per case ib Bordeaux Index
16.5 +
DOMAINE DES MALANDES
Dom des Malandes, Vaudésir 2009 Chablis Grand Cru
50% fermented and aged in oak (not new). Slightly more herbal than Les Clos. More obvious power on the palate. Tight and fresh and long. (JH)
Drink
2013
–
2019
17
Dom des Malandes, Les Clos 2009 Chablis Grand Cru
Fermented and aged in oak (not new). Light and minerally, slight sulphur catch in the throat at the moment but this will go. Creamy, direct, lemony peristence. Clear, well defined and richer on the palate than the nose suggested. (JH)
Drink
2013
–
2018
17
DOMAINE MAROSLAVAC-LEGER
Dom Maroslavac-Leger, Les Corvées des Vignes 2009 Puligny-Montrachet
Putty nose. Great tension, partly thanks to the dissolved carbon dioxide... Just a little sweet. (JR)
Drink
2013
–
2018
£220 per case ib Goedhuis
16
Dom Maroslavac-Leger, Champ Gain Premier Cru 2009 Puligny-Montrachet
Sweet and a bit dull. Heavy. Easy but not thrilling. Still a bit chewy on the end. (JR)
Drink
2013
–
2018
£295 per case ib Goedhuis
16
Dom Maroslavac-Leger, Les Folatières Premier Cru 2009 Puligny-Montrachet
Cool and sherbetty. Round and insistent but a bit astringent. Earthbound. (JR)
Drink
2014
–
2019
£345 per case ib Goedhuis
16
DOMAINE MARQUIS D'ANGERVILLE
Dom Marquis d'Angerville, Frémiets Premier Cru 2009 Volnay
Proper tremulous stuff. Lots of effort here – maybe even a little bit too much? Lots of tension. Dry finish. Even a little painful to taste now. (JR)
Drink
2015
–
2022
£420 per case ib Justerini & Brooks; £420 per case ib Armit
16.5 ++
Dom Marquis d'Angerville, Champans Premier Cru 2009 Volnay
Proper stuff. Very serious and dry. Very firm. Dry finish. Lots of depth and subtlety. Very youthfully chewy. (JR)
Drink
2016
–
2023
£480 per case, or £495 per case of 6 magnums, or £225 for one jeroboam ib Justerini & Brooks; £480 per case ib Armit
17
Dom Marquis d'Angerville, Clos des Ducs Premier Cru 2009 Volnay
Heady and rich and really rather gorgeous. Very sumptuous. (JR)
Drink
2015
–
2024
£725 per case, or £740 per case of 6 magnums, or £295 for one jeroboam ib Justerini & Brooks; £725 per case ib Armit (on allocation)
18
Dom Marquis d'Angerville, Clos des Angles Premier Cru 2009 Volnay
Faint cherry aroma. Fruity and fresh and lightly built. Easy now and scented on the mid palate. (JH)
Drink
2011
–
2014
£395 per case ib Armit
16
DOMAINE MARTELET DE CHERISEY
Impressive.
Dom Martelet de Cherisey, Hameau de Blagny Premier Cru 2009 Puligny-Montrachet
Dry, cool, serious, herby. Great precision and texture. (JR)
Drink
2013
–
2018
£420 per case ib Justerini & Brooks
16.5
Dom Martelet de Cherisey, Les Chalumaux Premier Cru 2009 Puligny-Montrachet
Very vibrant and reverberant yet rich and haunting. Like a tip-top Riesling (no greater praise..?) Very clean and fresh and impressive. (JR)
Drink
2013
–
2017
£420 per case ib Justerini & Brooks
17.5
Dom Martelet de Cherisey, La Jeunelotte Premier Cru 2009 Meursault
Very minerally and a little austere. Chewy and long and dense. Serious. (JR)
Drink
2013
–
2019
£430 per case, or £445 per case of 6 magnums ib Justerini & Brooks
17.5
DOMAINE THIERRY ET PASCALE MATROT
Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot Chardonnay 2009 Bourgogne
Creamy and gentle but with a mineral edge. Then a fine grain and more texture than flavour on the palate. But there a nice savoury, lingering aftertaste. (JH)
Drink
2012
–
2014
£105 per case ib Corney & Barrow
15.5
Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot 2009 Meursault
Distinctive nose: appley but a little sweet too. Firm and dry and chalky textured. Lingering. (JH)
Drink
2012
–
2015
£285 per case ib Corney & Barrow
16
Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot 2009 Meursault
Sweet and rich and perfumed like a violet cachou. Not really very echt. (JR)
Drink
2012
–
2015
£260 per case ib Bibendum
16
Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Charmes Premier Cru 2009 Meursault
Very attractive reductive scent – quite different from the other two Matrot wines tasted at Bibendum. A little chewy on the end though – a bit attenuated. No great concentration. (JR)
Drink
2014
–
2018
£400 per case ib Bibendum; £415 per case ib Corney & Barrow
16.5
Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Blagny Premier Cru 2009 Meursault
Smoky, lightly oaky nose and lemon freshness. Creamy lemon on the palate. Smooth, dense and finishes fresh. (JH)
Drink
2013
–
2016
£395 per case ib Corney & Barrow
16.5
Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot 2009 St-Romain
Subtle, lightly smoky citrus. Pear-grained texture, freshness but not much fruit flavour. Very textural wine. Fresh finish but somehow neutral-tasting. (JH)
Drink
2013
–
2016
£165 per case ib Corney & Barrow
16
Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Fleurs de Côteaux Premier Cru 2009 St-Aubin
Creamy oatmeal and a touch of oak spice. Inviting. A little reductive on the palate, again more texture than flavour. Concentrated and determined. Better with food, I imagine. (JH)
Drink
2013
–
2017
£195 per case ib Corney & Barrow
16
Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Les Chalumaux Premier Cru 2009 Puligny-Montrachet
Light and minerally. But with a sweet undertow. Not quite refreshing enough. Also pretty chewy on the end. (JR)
Drink
2013
–
2016
£395 per case ib Bibendum
16
Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot Pinot Noir 2009 Bourgogne
Pale pinkish cherry colour. Light, fresh, bright and lively. Very approachable. (JH)
Drink
2011
–
2014
£120 per case ib Corney & Barrow
15
Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot 2009 Monthelie
Savoury, darkish fruit. Sweeter than I expected on the palate, red cherry, then fine-grained. Correct. Nice length. (JH)
Drink
2013
–
2016
£205 per case ib Corney & Barrow
15.5
Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot 2009 Auxey-Duresses
Gentle, fragrant red fruit. Fairly slight but harmonious and fresh. (JH)
Drink
2013
–
2017
£205 per case ib Corney & Barrow
15.5
Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot 2009 Meursault
Ripe and sweet but lively. Firm, dry but paper-fine tannins. A bit drying on the finish but the acidity is fresh. (JH)
Drink
2013
–
2017
£205 per case ib Corney & Barrow
15.5
Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot, La Pièce Sous le Bois Premier Cru 2009 Blagny
Fresh cherry fruit. Ripe, almost raisiny taste but there’s freshness too. Papery dry tannins. (JH)
Drink
2014
–
2017
£325 per case ib Corney & Barrow
16.5
DOMAINE MÉO-CAMUZET and MÉO-CAMUZET FRÈRE ET SOEURS
Very dark colours and much increased prices. A few wines had sufficient fruit to stand up to the oak treatment.
Méo-Camuzet Frère et Soeurs 2009 Marsannay
Pale crimson and sweet and easy. Actually less exaggerated than the Domaine wines. But very early maturing. (JR)
Drink
2013
–
2017
£POA per case ib Lay & Wheeler
16
Méo-Camuzet Frère et Soeurs, Clos du Chapitre Premier Cru 2009 Fixin
Dark crimson. Sweet and a bit tarted up on the nose. Spicy. Certainly intense but not desperately natural. Lots of fruit and acidity. Rather rasping tannins. (JR)
Drink
2015
–
2018
£345 per case ib Goedhuis
15.5
Dom Méo-Camuzet 2009 Bourgogne
Smells more of cellar than vineyard and really quite tough. Chewy end. (JR)
Drink
2014
–
2017
£160 per case ib Goedhuis
15
Dom Méo-Camuzet 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin
Sweet and intense and jewelly. Lots of impact even if a bit more oak than I would ideally like. Raw finish. (JR)
Drink
2015
–
2020
15.5
Dom Méo-Camuzet 2009 Nuits-St-Georges
Gentler than the village Gevrey until the severe menthol note at the end. A bit harsh. Drying tannins on the finish. This does not seem to me to be the spirit of Burgundy... (JR)
Drink
2014
–
2018
15.5
Dom Méo-Camuzet, Aux Boudots Premier Cru 2009 Nuits-St-Georges
Bright crimson. Scented and rather voluptuous. Here is fruit that seems to stand up to the Méo oak! Fresh and vibrant and upright and delivers lots of (very slightly oaky) pleasure. Lots of sweetness. Very clean and refreshing. (JR)
Drink
2014
–
2020
£475 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis
17
Dom Méo-Camuzet, Les Chaumes Premier Cru 2009 Vosne-Romanée
Serious stuff. Firm. Verging on rigid but correct. Dry finish but the fruit is sufficient for the structure. (JR)
Drink
2016
–
2023
£475 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis
17
Dom Méo-Camuzet, Aux Brûlées Premier Cru 2009 Vosne-Romanée
Very dark crimson. Burnt fruit edge to this. The oak is a bit obvious. Lots of concentration but not much subtlety. Edgy and jagged. (JR)
Drink
2018
–
2028
£1,050 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis
17
Dom Méo-Camuzet, Grand Cru 2009 Corton-Le Rognet et Corton
Scented and just very slightly tarty. Big and sweet and smooth but not nearly as exciting as the Clos Vougeot. Chewy, almost rasping finish. (JR)
Drink
2015
–
2023
£725 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis
17
Dom Méo-Camuzet, Près le Cellier Grand Cru 2009 Clos de Vougeot
'Près le Château' they say. (But not on the label.) [We have since found out that in 2009, as there was a substantial crop, Jean-Nicolas decided to separate out his two cuvees of Clos de Vougeot, as they are separate parcels. They were originally going to be called ‘Pres le Chateau’ and ‘Grand Maupertuis’, but the powers that be vetoed any mention of ‘Chateau’ in the descriptor at the last minute, so what might have been listed as ‘Pres le Chateau’ in a merchant’s opening offer turned up labelled as ‘Pres le Cellier’.]
Dark, substantial colour. Rich and substantial. Bit of a banker of wine (by which I mean someone with a pot belly behind a waistcoat rather than something that’s easy to guess.) Really pretty impressive and concentrated. Fresh too. Reverberates on the finish. (JR)
Dark, substantial colour. Rich and substantial. Bit of a banker of wine (by which I mean someone with a pot belly behind a waistcoat rather than something that’s easy to guess.) Really pretty impressive and concentrated. Fresh too. Reverberates on the finish. (JR)
Drink
2016
–
2028
£725 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis
18
DOMAINE OLIVIER MERLIN
A bit fat and rich.
Dom Olivier Merlin, Vieilles Vignes 2009 Mâcon-La Roche-Vineuse
Racy, creamy nose. Very sweet start – just not really refreshing enough even though it has, as usual, been beautifully made. Good precision but just a tad too rich. (JR)
Drink
2011
–
2013
£111 per case ib BBR
15.5
Dom Olivier Merlin, Le Grand Bussière 2009 St-Véran
Firm ripe lime juice on the nose. Very rich start indeed. Still quite chewy and even a bit hot on the end. (JR)
14%
Drink
2011
–
2014
£174 per case ib BBR
15
Dom Olivier Merlin, Clos des Quarts 2009 Pouilly-Fuissé
Muted, relatively low-key nose, and still pretty sweet on the start though there is more freshness on the finish than on the other two Merlin wines tasted. Very fruity rather than mineral in this vintage. No great persistence. (JR)
Drink
2012
–
2015
£186 per case ib BBR
15.5
DOMAINE LOUIS MICHEL
Dom Louis Michel 2009 Chablis
Light, pretty, easy. (JR)
Drink
2014
–
2019
£48 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
15.5
Dom Louis Michel, Vaillons Premier Cru 2009 Chablis
Nervy and exciting. Not enormous purity but it does the business. (JR)
Drink
2014
–
2018
£75 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
16
Dom Louis Michel, Montmains Premier Cru 2009 Chablis
Good crisp cut even if not the most intense. Rather soft on the finish though alas. (JR)
Drink
2013
–
2017
£149 per case ib OW Loeb
15.5
Dom Louis Michel, Butteaux Vieilles Vignes Premier Cru 2009 Chablis
Reasonably find but there’s just a bit of 2009 smudginess occluding it. Chalky finish. (JR)
Drink
2014
–
2018
£165 per case ib OW Loeb
15.5
Dom Louis Michel, Les Clos 2009 Chablis Grand Cru
Light nose and then a bit smudgy. Not the density one would expect of Les Clos. (JR)
Drink
2015
–
2021
£315 per case ib OW Loeb
16
Dom Louis Michel, Vaudésir 2009 Chablis Grand Cru
Floral and easy on the nose – lively, fresh green scents. Really quite rich and dense. But definitely soft. Competent but no extra mile of tension. (JR)
Drink
2015
–
2019
£132 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley; £269 per case ib OW Loeb
16
DOMAINE FRANÇOIS MIKULSKI
Dom François Mikulski 2009 Meursault
A blend from three lieux dits. Bit rich and smudgy. Low acid! (JR)
Drink
2012
–
2016
£275 per case ib Bordeaux Index
15.5
Dom François Mikulski, Charmes Premier Cru 2009 Meursault
Lacks a bit of concentration. Easy... (JR)
Drink
2012
–
2016
£435 per case ib Bordeaux Index
16
Dom François Mikulski, Genevrières Premier Cru 2009 Meursault
Fine and herbal and solid but just a little heavy and chewy in style. Hot end with some sweetness. (JR)
Drink
2014
–
2018
£465 per case ib Bordeaux Index
15.5
DOMAINE JEAN-MARC...