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Burgundy 2009 M-P

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Our tasting notes are – phew – now just about complete. For a guide to our comprehensive coverage of this exceptional vintage, see Burgundy 2009 – a guide.

FRÉDÉRIC MAGNIEN


DOMAINE MICHEL MAGNIEN


DOMAINE JEAN-PAUL ET STÉPHANE MAGNIEN


DOMAINE DES MALANDES

Dom des Malandes, Les Clos 2009 Chablis Grand Cru

Fermented and aged in oak (not new). Light and minerally, slight sulphur catch in the throat at the moment but this will go. Creamy, direct, lemony peristence. Clear, well defined and richer on the palate than the nose suggested. (JH)
Drink
2013
2018
17

DOMAINE MAROSLAVAC-LEGER


DOMAINE MARQUIS D'ANGERVILLE

Dom Marquis d'Angerville, Frémiets Premier Cru 2009 Volnay

Proper tremulous stuff. Lots of effort here – maybe even a little bit too much? Lots of tension. Dry finish. Even a little painful to taste now. (JR)
Drink
2015
2022
£420 per case ib Justerini & Brooks; £420 per case ib Armit
16.5 ++

Dom Marquis d'Angerville, Champans Premier Cru 2009 Volnay

Proper stuff. Very serious and dry. Very firm. Dry finish. Lots of depth and subtlety. Very youthfully chewy. (JR)
Drink
2016
2023
£480 per case, or £495 per case of 6 magnums, or £225 for one jeroboam ib Justerini & Brooks; £480 per case ib Armit
17

DOMAINE MARTELET DE CHERISEY
Impressive.


DOMAINE THIERRY ET PASCALE MATROT

Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot Chardonnay 2009 Bourgogne

Creamy and gentle but with a mineral edge. Then a fine grain and more texture than flavour on the palate. But there a nice savoury, lingering aftertaste. (JH)
Drink
2012
2014
£105 per case ib Corney & Barrow
15.5

Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Charmes Premier Cru 2009 Meursault

Very attractive reductive scent – quite different from the other two Matrot wines tasted at Bibendum. A little chewy on the end though – a bit attenuated. No great concentration. (JR)
Drink
2014
2018
£400 per case ib Bibendum; £415 per case ib Corney & Barrow
16.5

Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot 2009 St-Romain

Subtle, lightly smoky citrus. Pear-grained texture, freshness but not much fruit flavour. Very textural wine. Fresh finish but somehow neutral-tasting. (JH)
Drink
2013
2016
£165 per case ib Corney & Barrow
16

Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot 2009 Monthelie

Savoury, darkish fruit. Sweeter than I expected on the palate, red cherry, then fine-grained. Correct. Nice length. (JH)
Drink
2013
2016
£205 per case ib Corney & Barrow
15.5

Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot 2009 Meursault

Ripe and sweet but lively. Firm, dry but paper-fine tannins. A bit drying on the finish but the acidity is fresh. (JH)
Drink
2013
2017
£205 per case ib Corney & Barrow
15.5

DOMAINE MÉO-CAMUZET and MÉO-CAMUZET FRÈRE ET SOEURS
Very dark colours and much increased prices. A few wines had sufficient fruit to stand up to the oak treatment.

Dom Méo-Camuzet 2009 Bourgogne

Smells more of cellar than vineyard and really quite tough. Chewy end. (JR)
Drink
2014
2017
£160 per case ib Goedhuis
15

Dom Méo-Camuzet 2009 Nuits-St-Georges

Gentler than the village Gevrey until the severe menthol note at the end. A bit harsh. Drying tannins on the finish. This does not seem to me to be the spirit of Burgundy... (JR)
Drink
2014
2018
15.5

Dom Méo-Camuzet, Aux Boudots Premier Cru 2009 Nuits-St-Georges

Bright crimson. Scented and rather voluptuous. Here is fruit that seems to stand up to the Méo oak! Fresh and vibrant and upright and delivers lots of (very slightly oaky) pleasure. Lots of sweetness. Very clean and refreshing. (JR)
Drink
2014
2020
£475 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis
17

Dom Méo-Camuzet, Près le Cellier Grand Cru 2009 Clos de Vougeot

'Près le Château' they say. (But not on the label.) [We have since found out that in 2009, as there was a substantial crop, Jean-Nicolas decided to separate out his two cuvees of Clos de Vougeot, as they are separate parcels. They were originally going to be called ‘Pres le Chateau’ and ‘Grand Maupertuis’, but the powers that be vetoed any mention of ‘Chateau’ in the descriptor at the last minute, so what might have been listed as ‘Pres le Chateau’ in a merchant’s opening offer turned up labelled as ‘Pres le Cellier’.]
Dark, substantial colour. Rich and substantial. Bit of a banker of wine (by which I mean someone with a pot belly behind a waistcoat rather than something that’s easy to guess.) Really pretty impressive and concentrated. Fresh too. Reverberates on the finish. (JR)
Drink
2016
2028
£725 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis
18

DOMAINE OLIVIER MERLIN
A bit fat and rich.

Dom Olivier Merlin, Clos des Quarts 2009 Pouilly-Fuissé

Muted, relatively low-key nose, and still pretty sweet on the start though there is more freshness on the finish than on the other two Merlin wines tasted. Very fruity rather than mineral in this vintage. No great persistence. (JR)
Drink
2012
2015
£186 per case ib BBR
15.5

DOMAINE LOUIS MICHEL

Dom Louis Michel, Vaudésir 2009 Chablis Grand Cru

Floral and easy on the nose – lively, fresh green scents. Really quite rich and dense. But definitely soft. Competent but no extra mile of tension. (JR)
Drink
2015
2019
£132 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley; £269 per case ib OW Loeb
16

DOMAINE FRANÇOIS MIKULSKI


DOMAINE JEAN-MARC...