For the rest of these alphabetically grouped tasting articles, and more general articles on Burgundy 2018, see our guide. This photo of Claudine and Jean-Marc Blain of Domaine Blain-Gagnard in Chassagne was taken by Jon Wyand.
The wines are grouped alphabetically by producer (sur)name and within those groups are ordered whites before reds, ascending from generic through village, premiers and grands crus. You can change the order as you prefer using the menu below.
Domaine Marc-Antonin Blain (Chassagne-Montrachet)
Dom Marc-Antonin Blain 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet
Son of the owners of Blain-Gagnard.
Super-ripe lemon and green fruits, almost veering to apricot. Creamy too. Powerful in its ripeness but, to my surprise, not lacking in freshness, though the acid seems quite soft. Persistent too. Dense rather than elegant. (JH)
Dom Marc-Antonin Blain, Grand Cru 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet
Monsieur Blain senior explained that his father-in-law left these vines to his grandson – a good way to keep him home in Chassagne when the young are so keen to travel!
Subtle, spicy aroma. Rich, mouth-filling and creamy. Dense rather than fresh – may not appeal to acid lovers but it is balanced in the style of the vintage. Real power here. I am not sure how this will age but there is so much matière that it could do better than I expect. (JH)
Dom Marc-Antonin Blain 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet
A little darker and more spicy on the nose than Blain’s parents’ wine. More savoury, more tannic, and less immediate appeal but will perhaps have a longer life? (JH)
Dom Marc-Antonin Blain, Morgeot Premier Cru 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet
Vines aged 80+ years.
Deepish crimson. Rich and ripe on the nose, spicy, oak showing but not overdone. Firm, chewy, compact, deep and long and embryonic. Sturdy rather than elegant, for now at least. (JH)
Domaine Blain-Gagnard (Chassagne-Montrachet)
Dom Blain-Gagnard 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet
Delicate, slightly stony citrus with a light touch of oak spice. Gently chewy texture, broad but finishes tighter and fresher. Spicy aftertaste. (JH)
Dom Blain-Gagnard 2018 Puligny-Montrachet
Bottled in November because the fermentation did not finish until July 2019! Other whites bottled August 2019.
The fruit is more tangy here than on the Chassagne, more grapefruit. Oak influence nicely restrained. Really good depth of fruit here so that the oak spice is not dominant. Fresh and spicy on the finish. (JH)
Dom Blain-Gagnard, Morgeot Premier Cru 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet
Ripe, baked apple and a full and relatively sweet style. Open, with a nutty palate and a touch of finish warmth. Forward and open. (TJ)
Dom Blain-Gagnard, La Boudriotte Premier Cru 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet
Rich and spicy on the nose. Creamy oak in evidence. On the palate, that same rich creaminess, broad and spicy with just enough freshness. Good fruit depth and a long spicy finish but could do with just a little more zip to be really refreshing. (JH)
Dom Blain-Gagnard, Cailleret Premier Cru 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet
Open and spicy on the nose. Ripe citrus and the sweetness of oak. Tighter on the palate than the Boudriotte, better balance and a long spicy finish. (JH)
Dom Blain-Gagnard, Grand Cru 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet
A little bit smoky/reductive on the nose but it’s subtle. Power and spicy intensity on the palate. Broad and length and again the freshness is as much in the spice as in the acidity. Long, deep, creamy finish. (JH)
Dom Blain-Gagnard 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet
Lightish crimson. Sweet cherry fruit, open. Chewy chocolate-smooth tannins. Firm yet harmonious. (JH)
Dom Blain-Gagnard, Morgeot Premier Cru 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet
60-year-old vines.
Mid crimson. Pretty, almost floral and alive with red fruits. Dry and taut on the palate, upright, with quite a grip and chewy finish. Needs time. (JH)
Domaine Henri Boillot (Meursault)
Dom Henri Boillot, Genevrières Premier Cru 2018 Meursault
Bottled. Powerfully herbal on the nose. Sweet start and then tense. Maybe just a little too opulent? I think for the money I might choose a J-M Boillot. It’s rich and winning. (JR)
Dom Henri Boillot, Clos de la Mouchère Premier Cru 2018 Puligny-Montrachet
Wow, ‘I remember when this cost just… ’, and when it was a regular on British Airways! Bottled.
Actually, this doesn’t seem quite as tense and smouldering as when it was a J-M Boillot wine. But perhaps my memory is playing tricks on me. (JR)
Dom Henri Boillot, Les Caillerets Premier Cru 2018 Volnay
Bottled. Bright, fairly pale crimson. This smells much more appetising than many of the Rossignol wines just tasted. Though it’s certainly less obviously ripe, dramatic and sweet. All in the right place and still a little raw. (JR)
Dom Henri Boillot, Clos Blanc Premier Cru 2018 Pommard
Bottled. Broad, winning nose with tight structure and marked acidity. It should all come right … eventually. Very bright, energetic fruit. (JR)
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot (Pommard)
Dom Jean-Marc Boillot 2018 Puligny-Montrachet
Bottled. In naughty heavy bottles still.
Quite rich start and then a good fist of matchstick at first than subsides and produces a wine that no-one could object to (apart from the price) – glam and smoky. (JR)
Dom Jean-Marc Boillot 2018 Puligny-Montrachet
A cereal and mealy note with a subtle flinty note. The fruit is fairly generous and plump on the palate, quite a broad style. (AC)
Dom Jean-Marc Boillot 2018 Puligny-Montrachet
Bottled. Stony citrus on the nose and then unexpected sweet lemon fruit on the palate. Very attractively rounded while remaining fresh. (JH)
Dom Jean-Marc Boillot, Premier Cru 2018 Montagny
Bottled. A bit mealy and unfocused initially but with excellent tension, reduction and – possibly – a little dissolved carbon dioxide to give it energy? Few would be disappointed by this, though it’s slightly smoke and mirrors. (JR)
Dom Jean-Marc Boillot, La Garenne Premier Cru 2018 Puligny-Montrachet
There is a zesty freshness to the palate here which supports the creamy mid palate, again quite a broad style and should give early pleasure. (AC)
Dom Jean-Marc Boillot, Champ Canet Premier Cru 2018 Puligny-Montrachet
Bottled. Edgy and exciting and with the richness of the vintage. Will presumably always please. (JR)
Dom Jean-Marc Boillot, Les Referts Premier Cru 2018 Puligny-Montrachet
Bottled. More stony than the Garenne. And a fine herbal freshness. Tight, pure, then creamy on the finish. Not intense but well balaced. (JH)