The first of our complete and finalised, alphabetically organised tasting articles collating reviews of all the young burgundy 2023s tasted by Matthew in the Côte d’Or and by Jancis, Julia and Tam in London. Matthew took the photo above of Amélie Berthaut when visiting Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet in Fixin. See also this guide to our coverage of this vintage in Burgundy.
These 137 tasting notes are grouped alphabetically by producer (sur)name and within those groups are ordered whites before reds, ascending from generic through village, premiers and grands crus.
47°N 3°E (Chablis)
Dom 47°N 3°E (Guillaume Michaut), Cairn 2023 Chablis
Fine and rich! Really dramatic and worth following. Bigger than most Chablis but really rather gorgeous. GV (JR)
Dom 47°N 3°E (Guillaume Michaut), Côte de Savant Premier Cru 2023 Chablis
Lots of acidity but really opulent. A different take on Chablis. (JR)
Domaine Aegerter and Paul Aegerter (Nuits-St-Georges)
Dom Aegerter, Les Petites Corvées 2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Full bottle 1,406 g. Fermented in stainless steel, aged in oak (30% new).
I am astounded that this Chardonnay delivers so much stuffing, shape and fruit at just 11.5%. I'd have thought it would be bone-achingly skinny to come in at that alcohol level. It's simply not. Pineapple skin, decaying satsuma, baked apple and quince with some sweet spice and ricotta creaminess. There is a textured burnish here which makes me wonder if the Aegerters are lowering sulphites and/or doing spontaneous fermentation. Long and complex and lovely – over-delivering for a Bourgogne-level wine. (TC)
Paul Aegerter, Réserve Personnelle Les Reversées Premier Cru 2023 Beaune
Beneath the wraith of smoke and a touch of popcorn, the fruit is pretty intense: golden nectarine, apricot. And it's long. This is pumping power and presence over elegance and it works out. Compact and dense. (TC)
13%Paul Aegerter, La Ref. 2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Trendy wine-bar Bourgogne with its shiny liquid baubles of ruby fruit and lip-licking tang that skeeters along the tightrope, just the right side of raspberry-sweet VA, and whispering little kombucha-esque suggestions between sips. But the fruit is clean, kiss-bright, fresh, and the tannins are as soft and tightly fit as cherry skin. I love this wine that is most certainly not for classicists or conservatives but brings a whole new generation of Burgundy and burgundy drinkers into play. (TC)
Dom Aegerter, Les Petites Corvées 2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Full bottle 1,407 g.
Delicate (unlike the bottle!) and full of peony-scented strawberry fruit. A smudge of sweet cinnamon, blood-orange bite and fragrance. Fresh and fine-spun. A little darling. (TC)
Dom Aegerter, Les Plateaux 2023 Nuits-St-Georges
I am more and more convinced (without any evidence, NB) that Aegerter are moving to very low added sulphites – especially tasting this after other Nuits-St-Georges. It's not that the wine is funky at all; it's clean, perfectly clean. The fruit is singing (of strawberries, essence of strawberries, wild raspberries), tamarind and cherry sherbet. But there is something else; another layer; an undercurrent. It's unconventional (so some people may not approve), burgundy in minor key, but it's delicious. I just hope they don't take it too far. (TC)
12.5%Paul Aegerter, Réserve Personnelle 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
The smell of roses. Stony dustiness, raspberries, powdery tannins which uplight and sustain the fruit into the finish. There is a real coil of intensity in the middle of this wine, giving it mouth-watering sap, and then it flutters out into dried rose petals on the end. (TC)
13.5%Dom Aegerter, Les Chaboeufs Premier Cru 2023 Nuits-St-Georges
Remarkably low alcohol! Ripe, wild strawberries on the nose, following through on the palate but with a tinge of lactic richness and tang, as if the strawberries come with cream cheese. The tannins are feathery, a whisper of astringency, a little peppery. The concentration of fruit sweetness builds and then fans out on the finish. This is probably for early drinking. (TC)
12%Paul Aegerter, Champeaux Réserve Personnelle Premier Cru 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
Quite demanding in terms of dry, stemmy tannins and something iron-green (cavolo-like) in front of the fruit. But there is a pool of soft red fruit in the middle, so the balance is there. It's correct; modest. (TC)
13.5%