The sixth of our alphabetically organised tasting articles collating reviews of all the young burgundy 2023s tasted by Matthew in the Côte d’Or and by Jancis, Julia and Tam in London. Erwan and Eve Faiveley, above, were photographed by Jon Wyand. See also this guide to our coverage of this vintage in Burgundy.
These 108 tasting notes are grouped alphabetically by producer (sur)name and within those groups are ordered whites before reds, ascending from generic through village, premiers and grands crus.
Domaine de L'Enclos (Chablis)
Dom de L'Enclos 2023 Chablis
Unoaked, 9 months on lees. Certified organic and vegan.
A suggestion of smoky reduction. More flinty as it opens. Firm, chewy lees texture. More intensity than on the Vrignaud Chablis. Bracingly fresh and with good length. (JH)
Dom de L'Enclos, Beauroy Premier Cru 2023 Chablis
Unoaked, 13–14 months on lees. Certified organic and vegan.
Piercing, green-fruited aroma, really aromatic. More stony/mineral on the palate. Excellent creamy depths here to balance the freshness. (JH)
Dom de L'Enclos, Vau de Vey Premier Cru 2023 Chablis
50% finished fermenting in barrel, mostly older and bigger oak. Certified organic and vegan.
Smells a little riper and richer than the Beauroy, more citrus, just a touch flinty. Inviting. Chewy, leesy grip on the palate with terrific depth and freshness combined. Notable concentration for 2023. (JH)
Dom de L'Enclos, Montmains Premier Cru 2023 Chablis
Certified organic and vegan.
Limey citrus with a touch of linden leaf. A very, very slight hint of struck match but the fragrant fruit dominates. Creamy lees richness and piercing finish. (JH)
Dom de L'Enclos, Fourchaume Dédé Premier Cru 2023 Chablis
This is a separate Fourchaume cuvée from their oldest vines, planted in 1952. Certified organic and vegan.
Seems more concentrated and perhaps more marked by oak spice and oatmeal. Incredibly creamy in the mouth. Mouth-coating richness but it's beautifully cut through by the acidity. Intense for this vintage and full of energy. Definitely grand cru level. GV (JH)
Dom de L'Enclos, Vaudésir 2023 Chablis Grand Cru
50% finished fermenting in barrel. Younger but bigger barrels for the grands crus. Certified organic and vegan.
Intensely aromatic: spicy citrus and fresh pears. Generous and creamy, rounded – so much so that it seems almost gentle. Excellent depth and length, if not as dramatic as the Fourchaume Dédé. (JH)
Dom de L'Enclos, Les Clos 2023 Chablis Grand Cru
50% finished fermenting in barrel. Recently bottled. Younger but bigger barrels for the grands crus. Certified organic and vegan.
That same spicy overlay as on the Vaudésir, with an impression of crushed rocks as well as piercing citrus. Rounded, spicy, creamy with a seam of freshness to a long finish. (JH)
Domaine Frédéric Esmonin (Gevrey-Chambertin)
Dom Frédéric Esmonin, Clos Prieur 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
Mid garnet. Light but pure nose. Hint of cassis! No shortage of fruit. GV? (JR)
Dom Frédéric Esmonin, Estournelles-St-Jacques Premier Cru 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
Rich fruit and signature purity. Fine tannins lurking in the background but overall a satisfying wine. Should open out in bottle. Long. (JR)
Dom Frédéric Esmonin, Grand Cru 2023 Ruchottes-Chambertin
Mid garnet. Rich and layered and really rather majestic with lots of tannin – more than most in this vintage. Needs time but it’s promising. (JR)
Jane Eyre (Cissey)
Matthew writes It was a pleasure...