Carla Capalbo, an American-born food and wine writer who was raised in London, is one of those very few professionals who, seduced by Italy’s embarrassement of riches, moved to the peninsula to become almost by accident its most fervent culinary ambassador. She has written 12 books, of which eight are about Italian gastronomy. Of those, three are very personal food and wine guides giving incredibly detailed accounts of Italy’s culinary and vinous landscape. She has also written innumerable articles for food and wine magazines on both sides of the Atlantic. She is nevertheless not a household name, though she certainly...