Florence and Daniel Cathiard have now been in charge of the estimable Pessac-Léognan property Ch Smith Haut Lafitte for 25 years, and, on the Sunday night of this year's primeurs week, they celebrated the anniversary with a tasting of most of the best wines they have produced. Because, like most estates in their appellation, they make a white as well as a red, this was a substantial tasting – and it was a treat for all of us that their daughter and son-in-law run the luxury hotel, restaurant and spa Les Sources de Caudalie next door so we could retreat there to...