Michel Chapoutier is a professional wine bureaucrat, in his substantial roles representing the Rhône in Paris and directing Inter-Rhône in Avignon. He somehow managed to find the time to get the Eurostar to London at the end of April, however, to present the latest vintage of his single-vineyard top wines, the so-called Sélections Parcellaires, straight from cask, but was going straight back to Avignon the same day. I have been reporting on this annual solo performance, lubricated by a glass of Bollinger for the performer, since 2010, when he presented the 2009s (put Chapoutier in our search box to find...