Every year we publish tasting notes on the latest primeur releases of the single-vineyard (Sélections Parcellaires) wines of the energetic Michel Chapoutier, pioneer of much, including biodynamic viticulture, Braille labels and Franco-Australian joint ventures. Each year it seems as though the Chapoutier empire is expanding and becoming a bit more confusing, so I asked them to send me a complete list of their own vineyards to date. (Of course they buy in quite a bit of fruit from others for their bigger volume labels.) Here is the somewhat jaw-dropping story so far. Hope that Michel C's passport is...